And in addition to C314 which Enzo just mentioned, he had previously suggested replacing C315 thru C318. Did you replace them? He suggested them due to previous experience with the same fault in the same model amp. So if one of them turns out to be the culprit after more days/pages of posts, I wouldn't expect much mercy .
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speaker protection relay issue
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So pin 1 is -8v. Scope it, or flip your meter to AC volts. Is it clean -8v or is there ripple there? C314 and D309 form a small power supply just for that. A bad cap leaves ripple, which could put the circuit on edge.
What do i look for on pin 1 on the A/C setting? Fluctuation?
Originally posted by g-one View PostAnd in addition to C314 which Enzo just mentioned, he had previously suggested replacing C315 thru C318. Did you replace them? He suggested them due to previous experience with the same fault in the same model amp. So if one of them turns out to be the culprit after more days/pages of posts, I wouldn't expect much mercy .
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Originally posted by daz View PostAs i said in an earlier post, i replaced every single electro on the power board. That was the first thing i did.
As mentioned above, pin 1 is getting negative voltage from the D309 rectifier. It should be balanced out by the positive voltage through the divider. The divider consists of resistors R337,R338,R339, and R340. Make sure they are all ok.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by daz View PostPin 8 shows only .15v.
At relay drop out?
Previous post indicated it measured 1.5V when the circuit was functioning.
Pin 8 turns the relay on at startup & keeps it on.
Pins 1,2,3 & 7 can turn the relay off.
R337 (22K) & R343 (62K) are pin 8's voltage source.
C316 is the startup timing capacitor.
You have to verify that these three components are good, that the soldering is sound & that the connections are true.
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Originally posted by Jazz P Bass View PostWhen does pin 8 measure 0.15V?
g-one, R337,R338,R339, and R340 are all reading thier proper valuue even in circuit so i'm sure they're good. (assuming they don't change with voltage)
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In this case the "P" seems to be the only version of the chip so it is the right one. For IC's in general, the P suffix usually denotes a plastic package.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g-one View PostIn this case the "P" seems to be the only version of the chip so it is the right one. For IC's in general, the P suffix usually denotes a plastic package.
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