Originally posted by pdf64
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Clipped the .002uf cap on bassman 10 and got major distortion
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Usually an 8 ohm speaker will measure less than 8 ohms on the meter (around 5 to 6 ohms DC resistance). A series parallel arrangement of four 8 ohm speakers should read the same. I would expect a 12 ohm meter reading from a 16 ohm impedance load. Check for open or miswired speakers.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g-one View PostUsually an 8 ohm speaker will measure less than 8 ohms on the meter (around 5 to 6 ohms DC resistance). A series parallel arrangement of four 8 ohm speakers should read the same. I would expect a 12 ohm meter reading from a 16 ohm impedance load. Check for open or miswired speakers.
I'm looking at the spec sheet for the speakers I've have and it lists them as 11.4 ohms. Weird I know.
Does anyone have any more input on this?
Originally posted by sleepingAwake View PostI just noticed something else. On the Bass channel the "Bass" knob has hardly any effect on the tone. You have to strain to tell the difference between 1 and 10 on the knob.
Maybe that might explain why the Studio channel has so much lower "boom". Like I said the studio channel actually pushes the air around you. The bass channel not at all.
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Originally posted by Enzo View PostI'm not sure that the brightness cap is the place to look for bottom end.
That's the deep switch on the bass channel.
Not the high freq bypass cap on the bright switch.
Is there a better spot on the bass channel to be looking more low freq responses and maybe some high overtones.
The tone stack doesn't look like a typical bassman and I'm still learning so signal path eludes me.
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Well I tried some stuff and got more lows but loss some clean headroom in the process.
Brightened up the channel as well.
I noticed the heater voltage is low as well at 5.89V.
I took out a cap that bypassed the 100k resistor and moved over to the bass pot. Mostly because out of the ones I tried it brought the most lows.
Take a look and please provide input as to how I could do it better.
Last edited by sleepingAwake; 06-22-2012, 10:20 PM.
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I guess I'll respond to my own question.
I've found putting the .001uf cap back in helped regain headroom. It was probably sending some mid and bass freqs to ground.
Replacing one of the caps on the bass pot with a .0047uf cap has given the bass pot some actual adjustment and gives the amp more bass.
There are still some sub-bass freq and mids that I would like to kill as it is causing some muddiness but I'm just not sure how to go about it.
I believe its all a matter of adjusting the signal V1B sees as I think its getting to hot a signal over some frequencies
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It's good that you are experimenting but I suggest that, to progress, you will do well at this stage to learn more of the theory behind the design and voicing of pre-amps. A good source would be Merlin Blencowe's book "Designing Tube Preamps for Guitar and Bass" and/or the TUT series from London Power. You can also download "Duncan's Tone Stack Calculator" and use it to get a feel for the effect of value changes to the various components in the tone stack. All these will be easy to Google. I think you will enjoy the modification work you are doing a lot more once you have a better understanding of the theory. Regards, Tom
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I'll check out the reading suggestion Tom.
I'm a bit disappointed with gerald webers book. I found it repeated the same info over and over again.
It could have been half the size it was.
I did download the tone stack calculator the other day but since the bass channel on the bassman 10 differs it isn't helpful to me at this point.
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You may be finding out why that bass channel tone control arrangement isn't popular.
Consider using the regular arrangement as per the studio channel, but tweak a few values, eg 33nF or 68nF for the mid cap, 150 or 330pF for the treble cap.My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand
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Originally posted by pdf64 View PostYou may be finding out why that bass channel tone control arrangement isn't popular.
Consider using the regular arrangement as per the studio channel, but tweak a few values, eg 33nF or 68nF for the mid cap, 150 or 330pF for the treble cap.
I thought about changing it to a AA864 tone stack.
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Originally posted by sleepingAwake View Post...I'm a bit disappointed with gerald webers book...
Originally posted by sleepingAwake View Post...I did download the tone stack calculator the other day but since the bass channel on the bassman 10 differs it isn't helpful to me at this point.
I'm not sure what your level of experience is. There are good free downloads available of old books. The advantage of the recommendations I made is that they are specific to musical instrument amplifier applications. Take a look at the sample articles on the Valve Wizard site ( How to design valve guitar amplifiers )and let us know if the technical level is right for you.
Regards,
TomLast edited by Tom Phillips; 06-24-2012, 04:51 AM.
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Weber's book is interesting but not very educational. Too often you get "move this here,and change that there' advice without showing the schematic changes nor explaining why they work. The book is basically a how-to guide to modifying your amp without learning anything. I recommend them as later reading, after you know enough to sort out which parts are baloney.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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I looked through the website Tom and I can say that some of theory is above my head at this point but I can get a grasp on certains function of a valve.
Trouble is I'm a hands on learner. Reading about a subject isn't the best way for me to learn about it.
But it's what I got for now.
The Bassman 10 bass channel seems to employ the reverse of your standard Bassman tone stack. It looks like there is a high pass filter on one side of the bass pot and then a cap to filter more highs on the other side???
Trouble is stock that pot sounded the same no matter what you set it to.Last edited by sleepingAwake; 06-24-2012, 03:17 AM.
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