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FREE IS GOOD,OR IS IT?need advice with Crate Stealth GT50H

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  • FREE IS GOOD,OR IS IT?need advice with Crate Stealth GT50H

    i dont want to hit everyone with a long,boring,drawn out story but here we go..on my way home from work a week ago,i noticed the unmistakeable shape of a head laying in someones trash..so i stopped and snatched it up..turns out to be a crate stealth gt50 head..so i get it home give it a brief cleaning,found schematic and did a little research,the covering was ripped off,missing both control pots for the reverb as well as any reverb tank and no tubes..so a fellow bandmate gave me some old but working 6v6's and 12ax7's to pop in her..turned it on watched the tubes light up..bam..loud pop and smoke..unplugged it,took it apart to find a 100uf 450v electro burst apart..f@$#%..so i order 2 new ones,and went out on a limb and replaced all the pots while i had it apart with alpha solder lugs and wire to the board..put it all togetherand it started to do the same thing again to the same cap..so i shut it off quickly..looked at the transformer wiring according to the schematic one of the wires were crossed,swapped em,fired it up..awesomeness,that is til i hooked it to my cab,loud humming,clean and dirt channels distorted heavily,then pop..another cap blew..1000 uf 35v and smoke..so now im in dire need of advice,assistance,direction,
    insight from one of the many pro's who populate this forum.everything looks/seems to be in good condition and soldering looks pretty solid..ive built my share of dirtboxes and modded wahs and such,this is my first tube amp..id like to keep it and fix it but i dont want this thing to become an obsessive hole in my wallet..all i can learn i would appreciate..questions are..

    why is it blowing these caps/causes?caps are c40/100uf 450v and c48/1000uf 35v

    the power transformer has 2red,2blue,2green,2orange wires from it,i see where they go on the schematic,but are they the right ones,i mean do they carry different voltages?

    could a blown output tranformer cause this?
    sorry for the psychotic rant and i appreciate any insight
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Things wot are goin' to help diagnosis - replace C48 - take out all of the valves - take the voltage on say, V4 anode (plate, if you're American), and then the grid and tell us.
    Check the voltage on the two rectifiers D7 to D10 and D12 to D15 - the transformer side will be AC and the other DC - take the voltages ref to ground.
    Check any components in the recifier chains for discolouring, including the rectifiers.
    Bit uncomfortable about 'old but working' valves, and next we can check bias voltages, but we need a running chassis to check the voltages, otherwise we start checking basic resistance.
    Also uncomfortable about you 'then hooking up the cab' - valves and o/p trannies don't tolerate no load......might have to check the o/p tranny.
    Back at 1400.
    Dave

    Comment


    • #3
      First, you left out some wires. The transformer has two red wires, and it is important they go to push on terminals J21, J22. You mention two green wires, but the schematic says one green wire - and it is the center tap of the reds. It plugs onto J50.

      HOWEVER, there ARE two Green/white wires. That is green with a white stripe. Those must go to J29, J30. Green and green/white are not interchangable.

      Same with the blue wires, they go onto J26, J28. The blue/white wire is the center tap, and goes to J27.

      It is crit5ical teh center tap wires go to their proper ground connections aqnd the color wires to the right places.


      Now look at all those rectifier diodes, D7-D15. Check them all for shorted condition.

      I am surprised a exploded C40 didn;t take out fuse F2, is it the proper type and value?

      The output transformer won;t blow up caps.
      Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by dNi3L View Post
        ..turned it on watched the tubes light up..bam..loud pop and smoke..
        ..put it all togetherand it started to do the same thing again...
        ...then pop... and smoke..
        Anyone care to tell us about bulb limiters?
        Last edited by rjb; 08-03-2012, 08:32 PM. Reason: Less is more
        DON'T FEED THE TROLLS!

        Comment


        • #5
          thank you for your replies and im sorry i didnt explain clearer,was frustrated with the darn thing,like i said,first tube amp,but i am really willing to learn..

          reply to dave
          im not too educated on checking semiconductors,how does one check a diode,arent they supposed to limit or cut off voltage to a degree?and the tubes came out of a working fender that my friend has,4 tungsol 6v6,2 mesa 12ax7,1 ruby 12ax7..so v4 would,assuming be one of the power tubes?what pin would that fall on,still new to this..and what i meant about hooking my cab up,is that i was able to hear the hum and knew something was still not working right..

          reply to enzo
          all of the transformer wires were left the way i got it,assuming someone played with it before,hence the first cap that blew i think was because the green wire was on j22 and red on j50,and after i swapped them is when but after about 5 minutes the second cap blew,i only mention the matching colors because i was curious to if they were the same,or had differences,and yes you are correct i meant green/white..and looking at the schem i noticed the power cord was wrong also..black was on j34 when it should have been j41,maybe thats why the fuses didnt blow? which yes i fond odd that niether blew,they are the correct fuses though..so i work this afternoon,and a radio shack in that town,they have a 1000uf 35v,but its regular leads and 80c,should work for a quick fix to figure this thing out til i can order the correct componants,im hoping anyway,but like i said ,im confused about the matching wires and wondering if it may have an effect on my problem..

          reply to rjb
          what is a bulb limiter?

          and i thank you all very much for your insight..

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by dNi3L View Post
            what is a bulb limiter?
            A gizmo that limits current to your device under test, used to prevent "pop and smoke".

            I was hoping someone would tell us whether it would have been useful in this situation.

            (I'm an acolyte, not a guru, and want to avoid disseminating bogus info.)
            Last edited by rjb; 08-03-2012, 08:31 PM. Reason: Added disclaimer
            DON'T FEED THE TROLLS!

            Comment


            • #7
              Having the black AC wire connected to J34 completely bypasses the main fuse and the power switch as well.

              I sounds like someone worked on this amp that had no clue about what they were doing. For your own safety as well as saving any additional new components, I strongly suggest that you do not plug this in again until you check and verify that the AC primary wiring is correct and that you have the correct fuse installed.

              Then verify that that all of the transformer secondary wires are connected to the correct locations. Remove all tubes and power up with a light bulb limiter until you know that the amp's basic power supplies are working correctly (not blowing up caps).

              When you replaced the pots did you have to pull a lot of the wires off the pc board? Are you sure that they all went back to the correct terminals?

              Comment


              • #8
                52 Bill
                thank you and yes thats what i figured,it bypassed the fuses direct to the circuit,as far as the pots go,they were pc mounted and a few had cracked solder,i figured wire and solder lug pots would eleviate the stress of the two solid objects coming together,im sure years of use/abuse led to the cracked soldering..but it looks pretty neat and clean now and nothing seems to be crossed...looking the board over with a magnifying lamp i dont see any discoloration or distorted componants..thus far its only been those 2 caps..and yes i dont plan on turning it on til i have an idea of what may have caused this...as far as the bulb limiter,im sure a small desk lamp with the end of an extention cord spliced on one wire would work?thank you again

                Comment


                • #9
                  ive just noticed another problem,the ribbon connector for send/return j43/44..was off one pin to where,looking at the schematic it was a ground that was connected to pins 2 and 7 of v3 and grounding it out,would that account for the hellacious hum i was hearing before the second cap popped?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    well afterputting the ribbon cable on right and replacing c48 1000uf 35v 105c with a quick fix radio shack cap same value only cheaper and 80c..took daves advice and checked all the diodes by desoldering and lifting one end..they were all good except for d13,nothing at all..and d15 which was opened..they were 1n4002,i had a bunch of 4003's laying around so i replaced them with those...then quadruple checked everything..put it together and bam......it works..it f@#$$##n works...but now i owe my friend a tube when i order some because when the ribbon shorted v3 it also took the tube with it..checked it in each position and nothing,but with 2 pre tubes working one in v1,dead one in v2 and one in v3 it doesnt sound too awfully bad,kind of fuzz facey touch responsive and farty at times,lack of that tube im guessingand the power tubes are iffy..not as loud as i had hoped..but plugged a processor into the power amp/aux jack and it sounded pretty darn good,alot warmer in that regard to my flexwave 120...with new tubes,biasing and a few more tweeks i may be on to something good after all...i thank all of you who contributed your time and insight,it is greatly appreciated,hope to keep learning from all of you,thank you

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I'm smiling from ear to ear - this forum is the best - you guys are un condescending and absolutely helpful - even the occasional jab of humour - long may this continue, thank you for a splendid, working forum!
                      Dave

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Free is good!!! Got to love the outcome here! Good Job!
                        When the going gets weird... The weird turn pro!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          well its been a couple of days,and so far so good,other than the burned out tube..which i am ordering tomorrow,i think a quad of jj 6v6's,but im unsure of what to get as far as 12ax7's..im not nailed down as far as a playing style,i could be playing the beatles one minute and playing pantera the next,so i need to find a setup where i can dial anything in pretty much,any suggestions? how good are the sovtek wc's?they are supposedly really high gain,ive heard the wa's in a friends amp but wasnt too impressed.ive heard tungsols are good in v3/pi position..and i have another question about this amp,it has j176,which are pnp,would putting j201's in it,swapping the legs of course because they are npn,would they give the amp more balls?or am i just gettin ahead of myself and leave well enough alone..just pondering that..and does anyone know if the mod reverb tanks are any good?thank you!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Crate amps make excellent boat anchors, or door stops.
                            But one thing you should not do with a crate amp:
                            Spend money on it.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Dave,
                              Your picture is so much more attractive these days, and I can't figure out "why?"

                              Comment

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