Silvertone 10xl Speaker Jack - +/- wires

[Jazz P Bass]

Put a 'speaker only' label at the jack.

[sywagon]

If your only connecting one speaker at a time you don't need a switch at all. Just install jack and wire a plug to the internal speaker. Then just plug in whichever speaker you want to use.

Missed your post while I was typing - that was pretty much the original plan but see my thoughts above. Currently it is pretty much that way - I just have a corded jack spliced to the wires (soldered) from the amp, but I don't like the way it stresses those delicate wires and it looks hacked (hence it isn't in the photos). I was also thinking just poking it through would disturb the resonance of the baffle less than putting a bracket on it. Eh, probably a better plan regardless. I'm definitely not mounting anything to the particle board sides as I don't want to tear it up any.

[sywagon]

Put a 'speaker only' label at the jack.

That would work, and I think I could live with it appearance wise.

Or, "Super Secret Witching Jack - Risk of Death!!"

OK, nevermind. We'd all try to plug into that!

[Tom Phillips]

Think some more about that plan which is pretty unconventional (and potentially confusing as has been pointed out) for a combo guitar amp. Alternatives are to mount a speaker jack as done on amps like the Fender Champ or, if you don't want to put extra holes in the chassis, mount the jack on a metal angle piece screwed to the back of the baffle or the inside of the cab.

[Enzo]

That would be my suggestion too. A small metal right angle screwed to the inside wall of the cab at the rear. That way you can use a regular metal jack if you like and it won;t be grounding to anything. Not likely anyone will go around back and plug an instrument into a jack on the wall. And no holes in your baffle or grille cloth.

Another thought that came to mind was to mount a small terminal strip on the chassis next to that transformer. Maybe drill out one of the nearby rivets and then re-rivet with the terminal strip on the same hole. Now wire the transformer to the terminals, leaving them clear of solder so you can use common push-on connectors, just like most speakers use already. Now nothing will ever tug on the transformer wires, and yank them out of the transformer. With my terminal strip, all that would happen if the wires got yanked would be the push-ons come off the terminal strip.

[sywagon]

As much as the cabinet sucks it is in perfect condition. Screwing into the thin old particle board seems precarious without glue. Good chance the whole works ends up in an Armadillo, at which point I'll have no compunction attaching a bracket. The push-ons sounds like a great idea, but is a little steep for my abilities and what I am trying to accomplish at this time. I don't have a way to rivet.

[Enzo]

OK, for future reference, a "pop rivet gun" can be had at most any hardware store or Home Depot. Not expensive, thousands of uses.

And I like them, but a machine screw with nut and washer would work in place of a rivet.

[sywagon]

OK, for future reference, a "pop rivet gun" can be had at most any hardware store or Home Depot. Not expensive, thousands of uses.

And I like them, but a machine screw with nut and washer would work in place of a rivet.

Yeah, I don't know why I don't get one given how many other tools I have - I just never look at stuff and think "this could use a rivet here".

Looking at it again I could maybe attach a bracket with one of the chassis screws. It would be in an area that would be hard to get at without removing the back, but I could work it out and I might leave it off anyway. This would have to be an insulated bracket, e.g. plastic, to keep the chassis screw from making contact with the switch correct?

I appreciate everyone's patience. It reminds me of when a new guy comes around the car forum I moderate with funny ideas on how to modify their car - many of our senior member would not be so nice. My dad is the PhD EE, mine is in Bio....

[sywagon]

Is the orange cap on the far left by the fuse a "death cap"? It says .022 600V. Should I just clip it out while doing the grounded cord?

[Brad1]

Vintage, schmintage...while you are on the cap thing...I'd think I'd just go ahead and go one step further and drill a hole for a fuse holder in that thing. Do you really want to take the chassis out and try to unsolder/resolder a fuse anytime it might blow?

Brad1

[sywagon]

Is the orange cap on the far left by the fuse a "death cap"? It says .022 600V. Should I just clip it out while doing the grounded cord?

Do I need to start a new thread on this, or is it just too hard to tell?

I do understand that precautions must be taken etc. and any changes I make are at my own risk. I'm just looking for confirmation that ostensibly that is a death cap and advise on if removing it and installing a ground cord as is simple as that.

Vintage, schmintage...while you are on the cap thing...I'd think I'd just go ahead and go one step further and drill a hole for a fuse holder in that thing. Do you really want to take the chassis out and try to unsolder/resolder a fuse anytime it might blow?

Brad1

I'll look into that when it gets around to blowing. I think it just pops out of those end caps though.

[Enzo]

Any cap wired between the chassis and either side of the mains wiring would be considered a "death cap". Yes, it is as simple as removing it and wiring a three-wire power cord to the chassis. The third wire - ground - is to be connected directly the the chassis.

Your fuse is a "pigtail" fuse. The wires are part of the fuse. The ends don;t come off, at least they don;t come off non-destructively.

[sywagon]

Roger - thanks!