Also, I forgot to mention that the output transistors on the heat sink were removed when I did the light bulb limiter test.
Ad Widget
Collapse
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Vintage Ampeg BT15 Help
Collapse
X
-
If the electroluminescent "panel" doesn't light - check the imbedded .25A (?) fuse on the PCB for the panel.
I have one of these amps that came with the "flip top" speaker enclosure (Altec 418 loudspeaker) and dolly. Timely thread since I'm going to get the amp back together now.
The large aluminum electrolytics (2500uF/80V) were damaged/marginal and I have yet to find a nice "radial" replacement - what are you going to use?
Comment
-
Originally posted by gbono View PostIf the electroluminescent "panel" doesn't light - check the imbedded .25A (?) fuse on the PCB for the panel.
I have one of these amps that came with the "flip top" speaker enclosure (Altec 418 loudspeaker) and dolly. Timely thread since I'm going to get the amp back together now.
The large aluminum electrolytics (2500uF/80V) were damaged/marginal and I have yet to find a nice "radial" replacement - what are you going to use?
Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Snap In | Mouser
There is no need to use 2500. That is a non-standard value.
check for the proper lead spacing, or drill holes to accommodate the new caps.
Comment
-
Originally posted by gbono View PostIf the electroluminescent "panel" doesn't light - check the imbedded .25A (?) fuse on the PCB for the panel.
The large aluminum electrolytics (2500uF/80V) were damaged/marginal and I have yet to find a nice "radial" replacement - what are you going to use?
I'll probably just take soundguruman's advice and use something that I know will fit size wise. I can let you know if i get something that works when I get around to it.
Comment
-
Originally posted by gbono View PostI have one of these amps that came with the "flip top" speaker enclosure (Altec 418 loudspeaker) and dolly. Timely thread since I'm going to get the amp back together now.
Comment
-
Originally posted by erock0138 View PostI checked it, it was good. Which pointed me back to the transformer only putting out 200 v.
There were some at digi key, that were 2500 100V, but I haven't looked at the size yet to see if they're comparable.
I'll probably just take soundguruman's advice and use something that I know will fit size wise. I can let you know if i get something that works when I get around to it.
Caps have improved a lot, size and cost wise.
Comment
-
Update:
Alas! I floated the supply. I found a bad solder joint on one of the big capacitors. What was making it short immediately. So, powered it up with the light bulb limiter and the bulb dimmed after a second (Good sign!)
I left it on for a few minutes, then started smelling a dry burning smell, so I quickly powered it off and noticed that the 300 ohm 20 Watt resistors from the power supply were super hot, about 110 degrees F according to my digital thermometer.
So, I've narrowed down the trouble area quite a bit (Hopefully)
Comment
-
Originally posted by erock0138 View PostAlso, forgot to mention I checked dc at the output, and was getting 20 V DC.
Also, Checked the big filter caps and was getting correct voltages. Haven't sent an audio signal through until I can determine other issues (Obviously)
The solder joints burn out on those, too.
Comment
-
Originally posted by erock0138 View PostUpdate:
Alas! I floated the supply. I found a bad solder joint on one of the big capacitors. What was making it short immediately. So, powered it up with the light bulb limiter and the bulb dimmed after a second (Good sign!)
I left it on for a few minutes, then started smelling a dry burning smell, so I quickly powered it off and noticed that the 300 ohm 20 Watt resistors from the power supply were super hot, about 110 degrees F according to my digital thermometer.
So, I've narrowed down the trouble area quite a bit (Hopefully)
And 110ºF is nothing (for them).
Do you get around 38/40V on the positive of C34?
And on its negative?
With or without speaker connected?
Do you get 75/80V on C30/31 positive?
All these relative to chassis/ground.Juan Manuel Fahey
Comment
-
Sorry for the delay, have been super busy as of late.
The voltages I previously gave were with all of the output transistors on the heat sink out.
So, I reinstalled them and powered the unit on to get capacitor voltages. The fuse didn't blow, but it immediately burned up a resistor (Looks to be 10 ohms) I'll have to check with the schematic to make sure. I'm guess one transistor is shorted? Even though the fuse didn't blow, it just went up in smoke.
So I'll be looking for some of the transistors after testing them, But cannot find many available, anyone have any idea of where to maybe find some?
2n3741 PNP
2n3767 NPN
Thanks again!
Comment
-
Find 2N3741 Stock and Compare Prices Across the Most Reputable Distributors in the Industry.
Find 2N3767 Stock and Compare Prices Across the Most Reputable Distributors in the Industry.
Them puppies ain't cheap.
Quest has them both.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Jazz P Bass View PostFind 2N3741 Stock and Compare Prices Across the Most Reputable Distributors in the Industry.
Find 2N3767 Stock and Compare Prices Across the Most Reputable Distributors in the Industry.
Them puppies ain't cheap.
Quest has them both.
Comment
-
Originally posted by erock0138 View PostSorry for the delay, have been super busy as of late.
The voltages I previously gave were with all of the output transistors on the heat sink out.
So, I reinstalled them and powered the unit on to get capacitor voltages. The fuse didn't blow, but it immediately burned up a resistor (Looks to be 10 ohms) I'll have to check with the schematic to make sure. I'm guess one transistor is shorted? Even though the fuse didn't blow, it just went up in smoke.
So I'll be looking for some of the transistors after testing them, But cannot find many available, anyone have any idea of where to maybe find some?
2n3741 PNP
2n3767 NPN
Thanks again!
2N3741 = NTE218 $5.25 Mouser
2N3767= NTE 384 $6.52 Mouser
Comment
Comment