Deluxe Reverb Reissue - 2nd PT Blown... going for THREE!

[52 Bill]

Blk to White - Continuity Open - 0 ohms
Green to Green - Continuity Short - 0 ohms
Red to Red - 117 ohms
Ylw to Ylw - Continuity Short - 0 ohms
Red/Ylw to each ylw - 0 ohms
Red/Ylw to each Red - 61 ohms and 56 ohms
Red/Blue to each Ylw - 0 ohms
Red/Blue to each Red - 64 ohms and 68 ohms.

I know that Enzo will jump on this, so help us out here and tell us the difference between "Continuity Open - 0 ohms" and "Continuity Short - 0 Ohms".
0 ohms should represent zero ohms or a dead short, just like holding the two meter leads together. No reading or open circuit or infinite ohms should not be listed as 0 ohms.

I'm going to guess that the primary windings have opened up, probably due to the internal heat sensor/ fuse. Power transformers heat up for a reason. Find the reason and fix it before you burn out a third one.

[Bruce / Mission Amps]

Adding to 52 Bill.... I am starting to see many tranny manufacturers drop the internal fuse link completely... maybe relying on the main line fuse!!
OK. You guys know who you are that have dug those out of the PT to bypass it!! ha ha
I can remember days when an internal fuse somewhere in the chassis, had a lower current rating then the mainline fuse.
Why? I think so some knuckleheaded user wouldn't keep feeding larger and larger current rated fuses into an amp that obviously had a real problem.

[Prairie Dawg]

Blk to White - Continuity Open - 0 ohms
Green to Green - Continuity Short - 0 ohms
Red to Red - 117 ohms
Ylw to Ylw - Continuity Short - 0 ohms
Red/Ylw to each ylw - 0 ohms
Red/Ylw to each Red - 61 ohms and 56 ohms
Red/Blue to each Ylw - 0 ohms
Red/Blue to each Red - 64 ohms and 68 ohms.

I know that Enzo will jump on this, so help us out here and tell us the difference between "Continuity Open - 0 ohms" and "Continuity Short - 0 Ohms".
0 ohms should represent zero ohms or a dead short, just like holding the two meter leads together. No reading or open circuit or infinite ohms should not be listed as 0 ohms.

I'm going to guess that the primary windings have opened up, probably due to the internal heat sensor/ fuse. Power transformers heat up for a reason. Find the reason and fix it before you burn out a third one.

I kind of missed that part about the primaries which I assume is black and white. If they are indeed open you are correct on all points.

[olddawg]

I kind of missed that part about the primaries which I assume is black and white. If they are indeed open you are correct on all points.

0 ohms is a direct short. Does he mean infinite?

[glp]

Blk to White - Continuity Open - 0 ohms
Green to Green - Continuity Short - 0 ohms
Red to Red - 117 ohms
Ylw to Ylw - Continuity Short - 0 ohms
Red/Ylw to each ylw - 0 ohms
Red/Ylw to each Red - 61 ohms and 56 ohms
Red/Blue to each Ylw - 0 ohms
Red/Blue to each Red - 64 ohms and 68 ohms.

I know that Enzo will jump on this, so help us out here and tell us the difference between "Continuity Open - 0 ohms" and "Continuity Short - 0 Ohms".
0 ohms should represent zero ohms or a dead short, just like holding the two meter leads together. No reading or open circuit or infinite ohms should not be listed as 0 ohms.

I'm going to guess that the primary windings have opened up, probably due to the internal heat sensor/ fuse. Power transformers heat up for a reason. Find the reason and fix it before you burn out a third one.

All I was trying to point out is that with my meter set to BEEP when there is continuity or if not SHORT. No BEEP... it is OPEN.
Then I measured in the resistance setting to get ohm readings.

If the original bad rectifier wasn't the problem, I am inclined to look at the filter caps. But will test power tubes and take a look at the OT too!

[Enzo]

Doesn't sound like I have to hop on anything. My doctors probably advise against a lot of hopping anyway. SOunds like you have found an open primary.

CErtainly the 5v and 6v windings will appear like a short - 0 ohms - that is normal.

Then that RD/Y to Y short is not good. Those two windings ought to be separate. That could have been the cause of the primary opening after it.

[Chuck H]

All I was trying to point out is that with my meter set to BEEP when there is continuity or if not SHORT. No BEEP... it is OPEN.
Then I measured in the resistance setting to get ohm readings.

If the original bad rectifier wasn't the problem, I am inclined to look at the filter caps. But will test power tubes and take a look at the OT too!

That didn't clear up anything for me.?.