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Fender Electronic Echo Chamber

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  • Fender Electronic Echo Chamber

    Hey guys, have a fender electronic echo chamber, transistor unit, in need of repair. All mechanicals are present, including the top cover. Tape disintegrated 20 years ago, I'm told. I have the wiring schematic but can't find any info on testing the record/erase or playback heads. Should the heads read dc resistance across the leads? They are OG Nortronics heads but I can't find any spec sheets on 'em. I don't want to waste any time messing around with the mechanical elements and splicing in the Ted Nugent 8-track donor tape unless I know whether or not the heads are good. Owner doesn't want to spend any money on parts, minus a capacitor or two if necessary. These fender units are pretty notorious, not reliable enough to gig with, and too much motor noise for recording. If it needs more than an hour of work it wont be worth fixing. Any info? Ideas? Rants?
    "If you can get the smoke back in the amp, it will work."

  • #2
    Well yeah, the tape head should have resistance.
    Not including whatever circuit it is hooked up to (test it dewired?)
    Same goes for the erase head. That will probably have a high frequency Vac signal on it to scramble the tape magnetics.
    Personally, if someone wants me to pull my hair out trying to figure out an obscure piece of equipment and they put a "don't spend a lot of money on it' phrasing on it, I will refuse the repair.
    You know it will take an hour to take it apart, figure out how it works & then attempt to repair it.
    It's like a custom one only circuit design.
    Lots of time = lots of money.

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    • #3
      Agreed, how many hours do they expect you to put into it for free?
      Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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      • #4
        Owner doesn't want to spend any money on parts, ......... Any info? Ideas? Rants?
        Yes, send it back at once.
        Do not let it get within 10 feet (ok, make that 20 Ft) from your workbench.
        Do not even "plug it in to see if it turns on or not".
        Juan Manuel Fahey

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        • #5
          Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post
          Yes, send it back at once.
          Do not let it get within 10 feet (ok, make that 20 Ft) from your workbench.
          Do not even "plug it in to see if it turns on or not".
          That was my first impression. Not so much worried about the circuit, components can be disconnected and tested pretty easy. If the electronics check out I figure I can splice in the Nuge's 8-track tape and hopefully get it goin' within an hour. May replace the main ps cap with a newer salvaged part. It belongs to a friend who brings me a lot of work. I figure it's worth an hour's worth of time if I can get it to work and make 40 bux. If I can't get it to work in an hour I'll box it up and won't charge him anything. I usually don't work on stuff if I can't guarantee it will work for at least a month afterwards, but the guy knows it's a toy and he just want's to have a little fun with it. I should get to it tonite or tomorrow sometime.
          "If you can get the smoke back in the amp, it will work."

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          • #6
            I recall, one summer 45+ years ago, I had a job working for a dry cleaner driving his pickup/delivery route. One particular customer would send in his business suits with the note PRESS ONLY, do not dry clean. A press job cost less than a full dry clean and press. Of course his suits looked nice but smelled like they were dirty. WHich they were. This makes me think of that.
            Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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            • #7
              If I can't get it to work in an hour I'll box it up and won't charge him anything.
              Fine, it's your time, it's your choice.
              Didn't want to sound harsh but , hey! , you asked
              *Hope* you can repair it within your constraints
              Juan Manuel Fahey

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              • #8
                Hey, it's for a friend.
                Go for it.
                Plus, it sounds like you want to work on it.

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                • #9
                  I worked on tape decks for decades. An open head is a very rare thing. They will have some resistance. I wouldn't bother to check that unless you have a play /record issue when it is running. You should inspect the heads to see if they are trenched. That is a common problem with tape loops. You will want to check the pinch roller, they get hard. You want to check the capstan bearing for wobble. It is probably belt driven, so check the belt unless it is direct drive. Also check the tape guides for trenching. It may also have a clutch. All of this stuff is visual inspection before you turn it on. When it runs demagnetize the heads and check the rec/erase oscillator. Then the tape path alignment. Hopefully it hasn't been touched. Use a scope.

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                  • #10
                    Where could I possibly find a Tape Cartridge for the Fender Echo Chamber? It's the main last part that I need to finish my restoration project..

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                    • #11
                      Tape Loop for Fender FE1000 Echo Unit

                      Originally posted by tsunamiwarhead View Post
                      Where could I possibly find a Tape Cartridge for the Fender Echo Chamber? It's the main last part that I need to finish my restoration project..
                      I just saw and purchased a tape loop for a Fender Echo unit on Ebay from GRS Systems in California. I am repairing the unit for a local high end guitar shop. I freed the motor that has been stuck for 30 years or so. Now I need help finding a pinch roller. The old pinch roller has a permanent dent from being stored in the play position for 30 years or so.

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                      • #12
                        Pinch roller does one job, holding the tape to the capstan. The diameter doesn't matter, that will not affect speed. In fact speed wouldn't matter on the unit anyway. You have to have one with a bushing to fit the spindle it rides on though. You can't have an oversized bushing. Diameter does matter insofar as it needs to be small enough it isn't bearing on the tape all the time. And it has to be large enough it reaches the capstan. Carefully measure the spindle.

                        I use one of these for doing that. $2.99 at Harbor freight.

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                        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                        • #13
                          There's these guys: Terry's Rubber Pinch Rollers & Wheels since PRB really isn't around anymore. If it isn't rock hard. You can put a bolt through it. Stick it in a drill Chuck, and spin it against a flat file until it is round again. I've done this before. Treat it with some runner restorer when you are done. If it has enough pressure against the capstan, like Enzo says, it will be fine.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by olddawg View Post
                            There's these guys: Terry's Rubber Pinch Rollers & Wheels since PRB really isn't around anymore. If it isn't rock hard. You can put a bolt through it. Stick it in a drill Chuck, and spin it against a flat file until it is round again. I've done this before. Treat it with some runner restorer when you are done. If it has enough pressure against the capstan, like Enzo says, it will be fine.
                            Thanks guys, I'm going to try to remove the significant divit that's in the pinch roller with the file method.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by cgoepel View Post
                              Thanks guys, I'm going to try to remove the significant divit that's in the pinch roller with the file method.
                              It will work best if you use a a bolt as close to the exact size of the shaft hole as possible. Use a drill press if you have one. If not. Find a way to secure the drill motor to your bench, table, saw horse, whatever. Gently move the file into the spinning roller. The file should be wider than the roller. Kind of like using a lathe. Take your time. Don't let it get hot. USE EYE PROTECTION!
                              Last edited by olddawg; 11-19-2015, 04:48 AM.

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