Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Hot looking anode/plate resistors.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Hot looking anode/plate resistors.

    Hi,

    I've got a Marshall DSL 100 with 4 cooked looking resistors... R48, R2, R3, R1. What could cause this?

    R2 and R3 are in the anodes of the PI valve (V4)

    R1 is the load resistor for V3b, a gain stage. R48 is on the cathode of V3a, a cathode follower.

    I don't know what wattage they are. Assuming 1/2W it would take just over 3mA to take it outside spec.

    jcm2-60-02.pdf

    Can you help?

  • #2
    Any help with the cause of this?

    The amp in question has been blowing fuses, and whilst I suspect the power tubes, I'd like to get to the bottom of this too.

    Thanks,

    Comment


    • #3
      Might the VB+ have risen, thereby causing excessive dissipation?
      eg amp operated without a full compliment of (functional) power tubes, intentionally or otherwise?
      Pete
      My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks Pete,

        do you think that one dodgy tube would really make that much difference? I don't know how much the rails jump by, but say 20V or so would only cause an increase in current of .2mA

        :s

        Comment


        • #5
          Agree one tube wouldn't impact, but some guys run with 2 of the 4 removed; then if another blew its screen grid resistor there would only one tube functioning. Or if there's a pre-amp output, some remove the output tubes for quiet recording etc.
          And if the node voltage rises then the whole LTP will draw more current, so it's a cumulative effect.
          I concede that it's a bit fanciful.
          Maybe someone tried an ECC82 in there.
          Replace the resistors and hopefully all should be ok.
          Pete
          My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

          Comment


          • #6
            Yeah I see where you're going with it. Makes sense. Hmm. I guess like you say I'll just replace with higher W resistors and go.

            Comment


            • #7
              Faulty power tubes can take out the PI resistors, ala Fender HR amps.
              Personally, I would ditch the PI tube & change out the power tubes, after replacing the resistors.
              You wouldn't want to go too high on the wattage rating, as the resistors act as fuses in a power tube melt down.
              So it's either the resistors that open or the copper trace that melts.

              Comment


              • #8
                'Faulty power tubes can take out the PI resistors, ala Fender HR amps'
                Yikes, not aware of that - any idea what the mechanism is to causes it?
                Pete
                My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

                Comment


                • #9
                  The mechanism?
                  That I do not know for certain.
                  I see it a lot on Fender HR amps.
                  Somehow the faulty power tube pukes back into the PI.
                  Or makes the PI tube overconduct.
                  Again, I am only guessing.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I don't know how the power tubes would have anything to do with it, the PI plate resistors are isolated from the power tubes by capacitors. And I don't often see those caps bad. Just my opinion, but I write it off to under spec'd plate resistors. I could be wrong.
                    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X