Originally posted by Joe L
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MarshallJCM800 2210 hum
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"Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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I installed the 1 ohm resistors in series with the filaments with all tubes removed as Chuck H suggested. I measure 8mV on one and almost 10mV on the other. One question I have is this: Should the choke wires be twisted together? It came to me that way and when I subbed the original choke I also twisted them.
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Originally posted by gtrplayr1976 View PostI'm not an expert by any means ,but have you worked your way back from D2 ,and D3 (filament supply) to see where the voltage changes ?KB
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Originally posted by jvm View PostI installed the 1 ohm resistors in series with the filaments with all tubes removed as Chuck H suggested. I measure 8mV on one and almost 10mV on the other. One question I have is this: Should the choke wires be twisted together? It came to me that way and when I subbed the original choke I also twisted them.
If so You do have a problem and need to find where the current is going.
If you are reading this with the D2, and D3 connected, then you need to take d2 and d3 loose and try again.
T"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
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I just inserted my ammeter at the first socket filament connection. With D2 and D3 connected, I have a 4.5 mA draw. Unhook D2 and D3, no draw. Can I retube and with these unhooked and check for hum? I know the IC is channel switching but I don't know if I will lose my preamp signal with it disconnected.Last edited by jvm; 04-24-2013, 07:58 PM.
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Sounds like your chasing a ghost.
I would insert the tubes and measure the heater voltage one more time with d2,d3 disconnected.
If your voltage is in range I would start chasing the hum in the ground circuit.
That is the normal culprit with marshalls and hum.
I guess you have done the chop stick lead moving while the amp is plugged up, trying to change things.
and thump everything with the chop stick.
Trying to change something.
Sometimes, if you can just get things to change, you can isolate and fix it.
Good Luck,
T
** Another thing with hum, try some low output 12AX7s, some 12AX7s won't work in marshalls.
Sovteks 12AX7WAs usually work. Not necessarily the best tone, but quiet.Last edited by big_teee; 04-24-2013, 07:37 PM."If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
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Originally posted by big_teee View PostI would insert the tubes and measure the heater voltage one more time with d2,d3 disconnected.Originally posted by jvm View PostJust turned on with IC supply disconnected. Hum still present."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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Sorry. Thank you for being graceful about it. You did mention it twice and I missed it somehow.
Check for AC on the HV rail from the positive filter nodes to ground. Please report on this.
Since you have hum on all tube plates, please do the tube pull test, again. Start by pulling the first preamp tube. If the hum is still present, pull the next preamp tube... etc. Do you need to get to V4 before the hum stops?"Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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No problem, there are so many posts here that I am confused myself! lol I have 3.2 VAC at the first filter node, about 1VAC at the second, and yes, I have to pull V4 before the hum stops. I have also replaced every IC, diode and transistor in the amp just to eliminate them as potential problems.
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Great! Progress! 3.2VAC on the first filter node means that the filament supply and the B+ rail are connected together somehow. They shouldn't be. It could be a shared ground that isn't grounded (my gut feeling) or anything else. Your mission, "should you choose to accept it", is to find this link, wherever it is. This post will self destruct in ten seconds."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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Just to make sure we're all on the same page, please clarify what you are calling "first" filter node?Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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