I have 2 bad winged C el34's that blew the mains fuse when used. I now have them mixed up with one good one. Would it be foolish to try all 3 to find the 2 that blow the fuse or is it risky to the tranny or anything else? I hate to throw away even one good one since they are going out of production, and a couple 50 cent fuses are worth the cost, a amp issue isn't.
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You can't always tell with a meter, but if the meter reads shorted, then the tube is bad for sure. Ohms scale, probe from pin 1 to pin 2,3,4,5,6,7,8. ANy shorts? Now from pin 2 to pin 3,4,5,6,7,8. It should show a low resistance to pin 7, the other end of the heater, but no others. Now pin 3 to pin 4,5,6,7,8. Pin 4 to pin5,6,7,8. Pin 5 to pin 6,7,8. Pin 6 to pin 7,8. And pin 7 to pin 8. It takes seconds to do this. ANy that are shorted, throw away immediately. But many only short under voltage or at heat. Got a tube tester?Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Originally posted by daz View PostI have 2 bad winged C el34's that blew the mains fuse when used. I now have them mixed up with one good one. Would it be foolish to try all 3 to find the 2 that blow the fuse or is it risky to the tranny or anything else? I hate to throw away even one good one since they are going out of production, and a couple 50 cent fuses are worth the cost, a amp issue isn't.
It saves your fuses, and if the light comes on and stays on bright, then that is the bad tube.
I had a KT77 that blew fuses, and I proved it with the dim bulb tester.
Dim bulb tester - Google Search"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
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Knock out a real basic simple Champ-style amp. One 12AX7 and one octal power tube. Wire the octal socket so EL34 will work as well as 6L6/6V6. We don't care about tone, so it doesn;t even need a tone control if you want to leave that out. Leave the little chassis out so you can swap tubes into it in a heartbeat. Plug a bench speaker into it when you need it. Now you have the ultimate tube tester - an actual amp circuit. You will know right away if you have a screwed up power tube. And the small socket will work on 12AX7, 12AT7, or any of the others in that family. Not only will it tell you that the tube works, but you will also be able to hear if it is noisy or microphonic. Not worried about impedances and stuff, all we are doing is checking if the tube works or not. We are not looking for full power and super freq response. Just does the tube light up and work, does it amplify.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Originally posted by Enzo View PostKnock out a real basic simple Champ-style amp. One 12AX7 and one octal power tube. Wire the octal socket so EL34 will work as well as 6L6/6V6. We don't care about tone, so it doesn;t even need a tone control if you want to leave that out. Leave the little chassis out so you can swap tubes into it in a heartbeat. Plug a bench speaker into it when you need it. Now you have the ultimate tube tester - an actual amp circuit. You will know right away if you have a screwed up power tube. And the small socket will work on 12AX7, 12AT7, or any of the others in that family. Not only will it tell you that the tube works, but you will also be able to hear if it is noisy or microphonic. Not worried about impedances and stuff, all we are doing is checking if the tube works or not. We are not looking for full power and super freq response. Just does the tube light up and work, does it amplify.
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I built exactly what Enzo describes in the post above a couple years ago.
Build it with a beefy power transformer and leave the tube rectifier in the circuit that way you can test rectifier tubes as well.
Get a socket adaptor and you can test el84 too!
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Well yeah, it's risky.
You are stressing the circuits.
I think the worst case would be a plate to heater short.
You could try it with the lowest fuse value that the amp will start up on.
A 2 tube 6L6 amp should not draw more than 70 watts at idle (depending of coarse on how insane the bias is set).
Also, the initial cap draw has to be taken into consideration.
It may be best to try it with only one tube.
Now a 1/2 amp fuse should be sufficient.
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Originally posted by Jazz P Bass View PostWell yeah, it's risky.
You are stressing the circuits.
I think the worst case would be a plate to heater short.
You could try it with the lowest fuse value that the amp will start up on.
A 2 tube 6L6 amp should not draw more than 70 watts at idle (depending of coarse on how insane the bias is set).
Also, the initial cap draw has to be taken into consideration.
It may be best to try it with only one tube.
Now a 1/2 amp fuse should be sufficient.
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