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HiWatt G15 8 MaxWatt - Gone Silent, chip details needed

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  • HiWatt G15 8 MaxWatt - Gone Silent, chip details needed

    Hi,

    My HiWatt G15 has gone silent (much like someone else in a thread from 2012). Got the LED on so the transformer thermal fuse appears to be ok, there is no his from the speaker, only a hum from the transformer and no sound from the head phone socket so pretty sure it's not a stuck headphone cut-off switch.

    Looking at IC2 (the power amp chip on the heat sink) it's a bit tarnished near the legs and I think it's quite literally blow out. I've taken it apart but there is no identity on the chip.

    Does anyone know what IC2 is and where I'm likely to source one (in the UK preferably). Is it a standard amp component or is this specific to HiWatt?

    Cheers,
    Craig.

  • #2
    Don't assume it is the output IC. Check your power supplies, etc first.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by olddawg View Post
      Don't assume it is the output IC. Check your power supplies, etc first.
      I'll be checking things with a multimeter tomorrow but pre-empting its a dead IC so looking for the IC2 details in advance.

      Do you by any chance know the pin assignment for this chip to check for power to it? Wondering if it's one of the pentawatt chips I've seen, but which? Guess I should check power to IC1 as well.

      Cheers.

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      • #4
        Does it have 5 legs? Got a picture?
        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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        • #5
          You might also consider checking the speaker itself first before you do a bunch of unnecessary work. Sometimes we get tunnel vision and miss the obvious.

          TOTAL GUESS, but it might help you read numbers on the device. Many amps of this type use a TDA2030. See if you can make out anything like that on the device.
          Last edited by The Dude; 05-22-2013, 01:53 AM.
          "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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          • #6
            Originally posted by The Dude View Post
            You might also consider checking the speaker itself first before you do a bunch of unnecessary work. Sometimes we get tunnel vision and miss the obvious.

            TOTAL GUESS, but it might help you read numbers on the device. Many amps of this type use a TDA2030. See if you can make out anything like that on the device.

            I've finally had chance to take it apart properly, was a bit late last night. The chip is definitely dead. There is a big hole blown out of the front. Quite literally a 'chip'! Thankfully I can just about read the numbers on the top and can confirm as you suggested it's a TDA2030. I'll order a new one and test a few other things in the meantime, they're only a couple of quid. Speaker itself it also fine.

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            • #7
              Just in case anyone else needs this chip, it's a TDA2030A which is the 18W version, rather than the TDA2030H (14W). Manufactured by ST.

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              • #8
                I'd probably stick a TDA2040 in place of the 2030 if I was already replacing it.
                Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                • #9
                  The 2040 can be a direct replacement in some amps. However, I've tried it in others where it doesn't work so well. The "upgrade" can cause premature clipping and/or overheating in my experience. I think it depends on surrounding circuit components and power supply.
                  "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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