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Good day,
I'm about to modify my Ashdown 5.15 like this:
1. Remove and discarde TR2, TR3, TR8 and TR9, then clean off the heat sink.
2. Fit a TIP142 in place of TR2 and a TIP147 in place of TR9 using Silicon pads (or Mica washer and heatsink compound ). Do not fit any components for TR3 and TR8.
3. Replace R22 and R38 resistors with the new 0R33 ( 6 watt ) resistors
4. Please ensure there are no resistors fitted in positions R24 and R36.
5. Fit a wire link between the solder pad where TR3 and R24 join; and the solder pad where TR2 and R22 join..
6. Change resistor R30 from 2K2 to 1K5 .
7. Turn the amp on with an 8 ohm load connected to the output, but with no input.... measure the voltage across R22 and R38 with a DC milli-voltmeter and adjust preset P1 for 3 mVolts on whichever is the lower, they should be between 2.5 and 3.5 mVolts.
8. Inject a signal into the input and test as usual, then play.
not being trained in your art, I have a couple of questions;
When I first looked inside the amp there was glue all over the place. I thought the caps had leaked so I cleaned it up and changed all the caps.What can I use as glue?
can any one tell me which fuse goes where? There is a 3.15A and a 1.6A. The amp has been messed with a bit before I got it and I would like to be sure of this.
P1 had some sort of green resine on it, I cleaned that of aswell. was that a mistake?
The reason for the modification is because the 3.15A fuse blew while I was playing (was hammering it a bit at the time) should I be changing any other components while I'm at it?
Thanks for any help!! 1%
I'm about to modify my Ashdown 5.15 like this:
1. Remove and discarde TR2, TR3, TR8 and TR9, then clean off the heat sink.
2. Fit a TIP142 in place of TR2 and a TIP147 in place of TR9 using Silicon pads (or Mica washer and heatsink compound ). Do not fit any components for TR3 and TR8.
3. Replace R22 and R38 resistors with the new 0R33 ( 6 watt ) resistors
4. Please ensure there are no resistors fitted in positions R24 and R36.
5. Fit a wire link between the solder pad where TR3 and R24 join; and the solder pad where TR2 and R22 join..
6. Change resistor R30 from 2K2 to 1K5 .
7. Turn the amp on with an 8 ohm load connected to the output, but with no input.... measure the voltage across R22 and R38 with a DC milli-voltmeter and adjust preset P1 for 3 mVolts on whichever is the lower, they should be between 2.5 and 3.5 mVolts.
8. Inject a signal into the input and test as usual, then play.
not being trained in your art, I have a couple of questions;
When I first looked inside the amp there was glue all over the place. I thought the caps had leaked so I cleaned it up and changed all the caps.What can I use as glue?
can any one tell me which fuse goes where? There is a 3.15A and a 1.6A. The amp has been messed with a bit before I got it and I would like to be sure of this.
P1 had some sort of green resine on it, I cleaned that of aswell. was that a mistake?
The reason for the modification is because the 3.15A fuse blew while I was playing (was hammering it a bit at the time) should I be changing any other components while I'm at it?
Thanks for any help!! 1%
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