Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

6G7A output section needs help

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 6G7A output section needs help

    Just as I finish building my 5f3a my neighbour brings around his 6G7A with a problem. I asked him what the problem was and he told me that there had been smells, dripping goo and no sound.

    I took the back off and pulled the valves and ran them through my little tester. One of the 5881 Tung Sols was very much in the 'bad' zone. I put in a pair of my 6P3S-E just to see if it was purely a blown valve problem. The look of joy on my neighbour's face when we got sound was a delight. However, when we went to take out the valves ( so that I could open up the chassis) i noticed that V8 (the one furthest to the left on Fender's layout diagram) was much hotter to the touch than V7. That rang alarm bells.

    Open up the chassis and note that a cap job has been carried out and the bias circuit has been tinkered with (trim pot added, 100uF cap, different resistor values to the diagram). I also noted that the screen resistors had been replaced with 470R 5W ww resistors. I took some measurements with my DMM and found that the screen resistor on V7 was reading open circuit.

    Question: will a blown valve (I didn't note the position) have caused the screen resistor to fail? Or would a failed resistor cause the valve to fail? If so, why would a failed resistor on V7 cause V8 to be so much hotter to the touch after only a couple of minutes? Is there something else I should be investigating?

    Furthermore - I notice the ground switch has a cap to earth. Is this the dreaded 'death cap' and should I remove it? I have attached some gut shots for support.

    Very many thanks for all your help.
    Jeff

    Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	1.43 MB
ID:	867554Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	1.33 MB
ID:	867555
    It's not microphonic - it's undocumented reverb.

  • #2
    A failed output tube can/will cause a screen resistor to open up.....provided it is a 1w type. A 5w won't act as a convenient fuse and the tube will continue to cook to death.

    The cap to gnd you speak of can be removed as long as you install a 3 wire grounded pwr cable (recommended). If a grounded pwr cable is in use the cap is no longer needed.
    The farmer takes a wife, the barber takes a pole....

    Comment


    • #3
      Pretty sure the valve is cooked to death. And so is the 5w ww screen resistor. I'll replace both 5w resistors with 1w carbon film resistors that I have. There is already a 3 prong cable installed with earth to a screw in terminal on the chassis - I'll whip out the cap.

      Thanks so much for the advice.

      Cheers
      Jeff
      It's not microphonic - it's undocumented reverb.

      Comment


      • #4
        By the way - would this also explain the difference in the touch temperature (valve with the good screen resistor being much hotter than the one with an open circuit)?
        Thanks
        It's not microphonic - it's undocumented reverb.

        Comment


        • #5
          The valve with the OC screen resisitor won't be conducting so will run cooler than the 'good' valve, which is quite probably running at normal temperature. A screen doesn't pull much current (about 5ma or so) so your 5W resistor looks like it went open as a result of an internal short.

          Don't overlook that a blown screen resistor and/or shorted valve can be a result of a defective socket. Check for soot, carbonised areas or cracks whenever you get a power valve problem.

          Comment


          • #6
            Great tip. Thank you.
            It's not microphonic - it's undocumented reverb.

            Comment

            Working...
            X