For testing purposes, just remove Q4 for now.
Ad Widget
Collapse
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
CRATE BV amp Ch1 prob- "Crunchy" Noises.
Collapse
X
-
If you can leave C17 disconnected until the fault is 99.9% verified, that would be best.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
Comment
-
Originally posted by Sea Chief View PostR16 shorted: ch1 noise remains. R28 shroted: ch1 noise remains.
Today you did basically the same test but got the opposite result:
Originally posted by Sea Chief View PostDone: lifting C17 leg/ V2 pin2 to gnd: noise ceases.
& the lifting C17 leg/ V2 pin7 to gnd: noise ceases.
The first test (Sept.18) indicated the problem was after V2 pin2.
Todays results indicate the problem is before V2 pin2.
Only one set of results can be true.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
Comment
-
I know it may sound as if Im doing this badly, but I hve bee really thouragh with every test. I check twice each connection, nothing adjacent is getting involved, turn on and listen for a good few seconds, immediatly write results here.
As to why results might contradict- Im not sure. (the test just before/ C17 w'leg up/ 1st time ch1 noise, 2nd time -I redid it to doublecheck- it was quiet like ch2).
Ok where am I at right now: Ive got C17 leg up and Q4 removed. I have a new Q4 on its way. JazzP when you say 'and results are??' I not clear on what Im testing to answer this (ie just no shorts/ jumpers/ no tests at all, just turn ap on like it is?).
Comment
-
We are connecting the circuit in a different manner to see what it does. Shorting across some part might reveal one thing, disconnecting a part might also reveal something. C17 and R26 form a local feedback circuit. it has a tonal affect, but is not necessary for the basic function of amplifying, so by just disconnecting one of those parts, that little circuit section disappears. It can no longer be involved with our noise. More importantly, it cannot sneak noise around the circuit through the back door, so to speak.
Those JFETs are acting as switches. Q4 basically turns C16 on and off. Turn on the JFET and C16 is in the circuit. That increases the stage gain, so that is the dive channel condition. If we simply remove Q4, then it cannot turn on and at that particular spot the amp is now stuck in the clean channel mode - the mode with the noise. So if Q4 was turning off for clean channel but not completely, so it was making noises, we can listen without Q4 and see if the noise remains or not.
So YES, fire it up without Q4 and see if the noise remains.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
Comment
-
Thanks for explanation Enzo- Im back on board with what Im doing now then. I was getting adrfit a bit (tho was trying to follow the pattern of tests & always look on schematic b4 I do s'thing to see the idea behind it 1st).
Originally posted by Enzo View PostSo YES, fire it up without Q4 and see if the noise remains.
Comment
-
So, to be clear, the noise was still there and C17 is disconnected. Removing Q4 got rid of the noise and C17 is still disconnected.
This indicates Q4 is a prime suspect, but we want to make sure it is not C16, which is switched in and out by Q4.
With Q4 removed, put your jumper across R30. This will mimic switching C16 into the circuit, but without Q4.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
Comment
-
Originally posted by g-one View PostSo, to be clear, the noise was still there and C17 is disconnected. Removing Q4 got rid of the noise and C17 is still disconnected.
This indicates Q4 is a prime suspect, but we want to make sure it is not C16, which is switched in and out by Q4.
With Q4 removed, put your jumper across R30. This will mimic switching C16 into the circuit, but without Q4.
Comment
-
Terrific. I know its not a dead cert, yet, but Im holding out hope on this dud Q4 then. Thanks hugely you guys.
Got one of those ^ ebay J176 coming. Now do different makes of J176 have possibly different leg denminations? (ie the drain/ emitter iirrc? on the schematic tho its D G S) and if I have to guess putting in (ie it might not have its D G S markings on) can I do damage if wrong way round?
Comment
-
If it's a 176 it will have the same leg configuration.
If you can't wait (I don't think I could in your shoes), you could steal Q1 for the time being and install it in Q4 position.
Q1 is for the reverb circuit, so it will not work if you try this.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
Comment
-
I think I'll wait.. the tracks are so thin I didnt hesitate to snip that Q4's legs off b4 unsoldering, so Icould only remove Q1 like so. My knobly knees will be knocking resoldering in the new B'stard, such dericate tracks.. waited longtime so far so no major prob. Also I got its 'replacement' (prob no2) a vox ac15 today.. hey guess what? issues with that too (dont fret- cab only thankfk/ amp is good!). Goddammit. I told you lot not to use ebay for GTR amps, then wtf do I do again already??
Comment
Comment