Volume Potentiometer - RCF ARTxxx

[Tone Meister]

The only possible snag I can think of is that the pot's bushing is a bit on the long side, which might require a spacer or counternut between the pot and the panel.

The bushing length is 9.5mm, or ~3/8" so getting it fitted in the panel with ample spacing between the panel and PCB shouldn't be too difficult. I've found a suitable low-profile knob that will sit snugly in the recessed area of the amp chassis, so that should do it unless someone has a better suggestion for a pot. I tried sourcing a high torque version of this same pot but can't find them in stock anywhere.

[doctor]

The bushing length is 9.5mm, or ~3/8" so getting it fitted in the panel with ample spacing between the panel and PCB shouldn't be too difficult. I've found a suitable low-profile knob that will sit snugly in the recessed area of the amp chassis, so that should do it unless someone has a better suggestion for a pot. I tried sourcing a high torque version of this same pot but can't find them in stock anywhere.

Here are the parts lists for the 200A and 500A ART series (I hope that lists will be readable).

Unfortunately, the exact part numbers of all parts are absent. There are only RCF's home part numbers.

A connection of the suitable potentiometer to the board by wires may be the only way (not worst).

[steve allen]

having the same problems ,plus finding original replacement is near impossible
just wondering if the original poster managed to sort problem (and how)
did contact steve at rcf as needed the values for pot (wattage) seems its 0.12w

[soundguruman]

The best thing is to connect flying leads to the circuit board.
And mount a conventional pot in the hole, with a different knob.

These PC mount pots are a total pain to buy...and they are junk.

It's not even worth looking for.

[steve allen]

would this one be suitable
Buy Potentiometers Potentiometer Duo Long life 6mm 50K Vishay P11L2V0FLSY00503KA online from RS for next day delivery.

[Tone Meister]

Yes, the panel-mounted pot solved the problem for the long term since I can always change out the pot with one that is readily available should I have another failure. I used the Bourns 50K linear pot referenced above and soldered flying leads to the PCB, then added chickenhead knobs for a finishing touch.

I found it easier to source a simple panel-mount pot and not try to replicate the old precarious mounting style with a long shaft that pokes through the amp chassis. The panel-mounted situation is obviously much sturdier than the stock mounted pot and good quality pots are easy to find. I did have to enlarge the opening in the panel to accommodate the new pot's diameter, but that was the only real modification.