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Carvin XV-112E combo repair...

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  • Carvin XV-112E combo repair...

    Hi,
    I am new to this forum, so hello everybody.

    I am currently trying to repair my Carvin XV-112E combo from 1989, that I didn't use for years since it was damaged during a fire in our apartment.
    this is the schematic of the amp

    this is the 1989 Carvin amp catalog, if you want to have a look at the amp.

    As for my background, I am new to the technical side of tube amps, though I am using them for playing since many years. Of course I did a bit of research before attempting the repair and I am aware of the lethal voltages in tube amps and am trying my best to do this very carefully.
    My first attempt at getting it back to work ended in smoke due to a shortened power tube, that caused a screen resistor to burn. However after reading up a bit and replacing three failed resistors it was basically working again, but there were still a few things to do:
    The reverb needed to be reconnected, I wanted to replace the remaining two screen resistors so that they are all the same value and I wanted to add a bias control to allow for adjustment of the idle current, since this amp has a non-adjustable fixed Bias.
    I did these changes last weekend, but sth. went wrong
    The clean channel still works fine but the lead channels output is suddenly very low, with the gain and master cranked all the way up it's barely audible.
    I must also confess, that I accidentally had the amp powered on without load for a few seconds
    So my first question is: Is it possible that a broken output transformer only affects one channel? It seems unlikely to me, but as I am a noob that doesn't mean anything, so it would be nice if someone could set this straight.
    If it's not the ot, I'd suspect the problem to be somewhere in the preamp sections. However any tips on how to find the problem would of course be appreciated.

    Thanks for your time

    Niko

  • #2
    You picked a fine time Lucille !

    I have to say that's one of the hardest amps to work on I've seen because there are no connectors. Individual wires soldered to the board on each side and the OT wires underneath and the power tranny. The first thing we need to do is isolate the problem to either preamp or power amp. If the amp powers up good and doesn't blow that 390 ohm 15 watter that acts as a choke your good. The send out is basically a preamp out so use that output to another amps input or return and see if it works. Use the SV for the gain and other amp for volume. Then take the other amps send and route it to the return of the Carvin and see if it gets loud by using the Carvin volume control and the gain of the amp your sending from.
    KB

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    • #3
      Thanks for your help Amp Kat

      It seems to be a preamp problem then. As I said the clean channel is working normally, only the lead channel is really quiet.
      The 15W 390 Ohm R, was a 10W 350 Ohm in my version of the amp and I have already replaced it.
      I also measured the voltages on the power tube sockets without tubes yesterday, this is what I got:
      V4: Anode/plate: 455 screen: 457
      V5: Anode/plate: 456 screen: 457
      V6: Anode/plate: 459 screen: 456
      V7: Anode/plate: 460 screen: 458

      This looks pretty ok to me, the screen voltages are rather high, but that's because of the 390 Ohm 5W resistors in there, in the schematics it's even only 350 Ohm.

      So, I guess I have to measure the voltages in the preamp signal path of the lead channel. Can you recommend good measurement points for this?

      Thanks a lot!

      Niko

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Niko View Post
        Thanks for your help Amp Kat

        So, I guess I have to measure the voltages in the preamp signal path of the lead channel. Can you recommend good measurement points for this?

        Thanks a lot!

        Niko
        No problem. No doubt the best tool is going to be an O'Scope for finding where the signal is dropping. Do you have one ? You should get your normal voltages on the plates of the preamp tubes pins 1 & 6 anywhere from 150 to 250 is ok. In the signal path on one side of the coupling caps you should get the plate voltage and on the other end almost zero. Have you swapped all of the preamp tubes yet ? The first thing to try is take a guitar cord and patch from send to return and see if it comes back. Could have a bad or corroded jack.
        KB

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        • #5
          I don't have an oscilloscope, unfortunately. I have already tried swapping all the preamp tubes, that didn't help. I will try your suggestions and see if I can spot something suspicious. I am a bit short on time at the moment, so I propably won't be able to work on the amp again before the weekend. I'll post back then and report my findings.

          Thanks again!

          Niko

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          • #6
            Yeah, it's back

            Had some time today and found the problem. On my amp there's a slightly odd combination of two resistors and a capacitor all soldered together at R8. On one of the resistor's the leg that connected to the board was broken, apparently there was pretty high tension on the thing and it propably happened when I tried to bend the capacitor out of the way to have more room to solder. Anyway I am happy that it's working again.

            Thanks again Amp Kat for your help. Great forum you guys have here

            cheers

            Niko

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