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Eden WT-800 low/distorted output

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  • #16
    Dear Fury, you are testing "parts", I want to test "function", not the same.
    I think Enzo will understand what I'm pointing at.
    FWIW *so far* I suspect good caps and rectifier, go figure.

    Please
    put the caps back on the board and the power supply board back into the amp and see what happens.
    And please check what I asked in post #13.

    The point is that some of those measurements *look* dumb, as in: " I have 10 volts on one end of this wire, I certainly *must* have 10V on the other end, 4 inches away, why measure again?".

    Well, they often are "dumb", but now and then one is not what you assumed.

    This leads to a "WTF ????" moment which then may lead to an answer.
    Juan Manuel Fahey

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    • #17
      Ok so I am about to put the caps back on the board and put the board back into the amp so I can test the caps one at a time like Mr. Fahey wants me to. But before I do, I have the power tranny disconnected from said power supply board and I turn on the unit and measure the DC side of the rectifier and I have 0 VDC. Also 0 VAC on the AC side. WTF?????

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      • #18
        What are you using as a ground reference?
        The layout showes Red/ Orange/ Red as the high voltage secondaries.( if I am reading it correctly.)
        That would make Orange the center tapped reference for the Vac.
        Attached Files

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        • #19
          You won't measure anything with the power transformer disconnected.
          Originally posted by Enzo
          I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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          • #20
            I put the caps back on the board and hooked it up. measured each one, 85 V DC on each. They arent getting hot anymore so I dont know what was up with that. So apparently the rectifier is doing its job. Amp is still making a distorted sound on both sides.

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            • #21
              1) I didn't ask for measuring the caps one by one but to replace them all an measure *the power supply as a whole*, as it's actually used in the amplifier, and which is what's been failing.

              As I said, from the beginning I suspected a *functional* problem, such as incorrect wiring or caps pulled and replaced inverted or improper grounding or connectors pulled and improperly placed (upside down or in wrong connectors or displaced "1 pin"), or voltage switches/taps set improperly, stuff like that.
              And no amount of "parts testing" will catch those.

              2) and now I see (thanks JPB) one such possibility.

              F*ck Eden for providing schematics lacking vital information, but now from the (poorly drawn) PSU layout a possible problem jumps at me:

              the transformer shows a single primary winding but with 4 taps:
              0V
              20V
              120V
              240V
              which will match 4 different line voltages:
              100V (Japan)= [20] + [120]
              120V (USA/Brazil) = [0] + [120]
              220V (South America/Europe)= [20] + [240]
              240 (Europe/UK/Australia)= [0] + [240]

              so I suspect the so called 20V tap is actually used, together with the 120V one , effectively turning the amp into a 100V Japan model.

              This would explain the higher than normal voltages measured, but not so much as straight blowing fuses.

              So please mount everything as usual and
              measure voltage across the cap terminals themselves
              ...
              Also check your actual line voltage, and what VAC you measure across transformer secondary wires and from each secondary wire to ground..
              I expect those secondaries no higher than, say, 60+60VAC and preferably around 2x50 or 55VAC .
              Measure from each red to orange and actual DC voltage across filter cap pins.

              Do the caps first and it should take less than 1 minute, which should be safe.
              Don't expect more than 80V ; 85V tops.

              3) of everything fine:
              a) double check that white/blue/black/grey are connected as shown in the layout
              b) measure VAC [black]>[blue] and [black]>[white]

              One of them will be 120VAC or what you actually have "at the wall", the other will not.

              Post results.
              Juan Manuel Fahey

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              • #22
                Looks like we simulposted.
                Ok, you confirm my theory that "parts are right" , meaning good caps and bridge.
                Not sure about the 85V rails, because Eden (like many others) does not print the voltage to be expected there, which I find stupid, but anyway we still want to know whether the 120V winding is actually getting 120V or not, so please measure and answer that part of my questions.

                That said, "sounding weak and distorted" is an entirely different problem, but let's check this first.,
                Juan Manuel Fahey

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