Replacing a 2 wire cord with a 3 wire one

[bsco]

Just a quick question...If you want to change over to a 3 wire power cord, instead of eliminating the ground switch and re-routing wires around and trying to cover up the empty hole, can't you just remove the capacitor and leave the switch there with the two outside connections wired up?? It can't make any connections to ground...Or should I just trace these two wires back to the origin and removes these as well?? Then there are no wires connected to the switch...I an concerned with the safety issue and I want to make sure that I do this right... I will be using a 3 wire power cord....
Cheers,
Bernie

[Tom Phillips]

...can't you just remove the capacitor and leave the switch there with the two outside connections wired up?...

Yes. No problem.

[bsco]

Ok. Thanks man. I just wanted to double check before I did that way..I was planning on dis-connecting the other two wires and putting heat shrink over them (and the center lug). then re-connecting them so everything is insulated.....just to be safe..........Thanks so much....
Cheers,
Bernie

[Tom Phillips]

Also note these other things that should be done as part of an upgrade to a grounded power cord:

1. The fuse and the ON/OFF switch should both be in series with the "hot" line lead.
2. A terminal of the old ground switch is a handy place to make the neutral connection to the transformer primary.
3. The feed to the fuse holder should be routed in the back of the fuse holder and out the part nearest the front cap. This makes it less likely to get the hot line connected to your fingers when changing a fuse. Vintage fuse holders are more dangerous. Modern fuse holders are physically constructed to prevent this problem. I'm not saying that I swap out fuse holders. Just telling the facts.
4. The ground lead should be soldered to the chassis or securely connected to the chassis with a dedicated screw with good locking hardware. It's bad practice to use a transformer mounting bolt for the ground wire connection.

If you want to know more just ask or Google for more info. There should be lots available.Cheers,
Tom

[bsco]

Thanks for the extra info....The switch is a DPDT....The amp uses a circuit breaker....I used a dedicated grounding point for the power cord.....I did not use a transformer mounting bolt.....I removed the Death Cap....I left the grounding switch as is.....I never use the transformer mounting bolts as ground screws..I find they always come loose somewhat and screw up the ground....I did not know that about the fuse holder...(but this one has a circuit breaker)...I just made a note of the fuse tip...According to this I have seen a few amps with transformer mounting bolts used as grounds..even from some manufacturers.....I always change that..and if the switch is a SPST I make sure the live wire is the one that is switched and not the neutral.....I'd rather play it safe....can't afford a lawyer....Thanks very much for your reply.....
Cheers,
Bernie

[Tom Phillips]

Bernie,
I'm happyto contribute information. It sounds like you have a good understanding of the situation.

...I have seen a few amps with transformer mounting bolts used as grounds..even from some manufacturers...

That;s been my experience too. Transformer bolts always seem to work their way loose unless they use good nylock nuts. This seems especially true in tube amps. I think it's due to the significant heating and cooling cycles combined with the vibration guitar amps experience.
Tom