Fender Hot Rod Deluxe Switching problems

[1WoodHippie]

I know this has been covered in a ton of other threads and I've read them, but this has got me scratching my head.

I've got a Hot Rod Deluxe that came to me because it was making horrible buzzing noises. When I opened it up CR13 was loose in the bottom of the chasis and the board was burnt due to heat. I replaced C39, C42, R78, R79, CR13, CR14, C40 and C41.

That cured the buzzing problem, now I noticed I got no reverb and the Channels are stuck in Drive. (yellow light on)

Here's my voltages:
either side of of R78: +46.7 and 14.3V
either side of R79: -46.7 and -14.3V

Drive switch On OFF
TP31 .7vdc .7vdc
TP32 5.7vdc .1vdc
TP33 2vdc 2.1vdc

pin 4 and 8 on the Reverb chip reflect the 14.3v readings above.

My first guess is that everything is off because my 16v rails aren't up at 16V therefore not turning the chips on. Therefore affecting both the reverb and channel switching.
But how do I boost it up to 16V? Shouldn't CR 13/14 be clamping that voltage to 16?

thanks in advance!

[The Dude]

That little bit of difference in voltage won't make any difference. It could be telling you that you have a bad ground somewhere, though. I assume your readings are to chassis ground? Measure directly across the diodes and see what you get. Check any and all ground connections and make sure they are good.

[sgelectric]

Check both sides of the bi-color LED.
If one section is out the amp won't switch.
The LED is integral to the switching circuit and is not simply an indicator light.

SG

[tubeamptech]

I'd check all the diodes in the switching circuit with an ohmmeter, forward and reverse bias. I had one where one was "leaky" in forward bias, and caused no switching. CR26 + 28. They read OK with a diode check though.