The website froze for me about the time g-one was helping me sort this out yesterday. I will be unable to respond to this thread until later today, but I do welcome in advance any troubleshooting suggestions that anyone offers.
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Koch Twintone I - issue in power section
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Check for bad solder or open resistor at R60,61,&62.
Try your cap to ground on either side of R60, what happens?Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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OK, bear with me here. I tested R60, R61, R62, and R63 and used the cap to shunt the circuit in several places.
R60 (100K) = 98K
R61 (470K) = 481K
R62 (10K) = 8.6K
R63 (47K) = 46.3K
When I use the cap to shunt R60 at the junction of pin 7 of V4, the noise goes away leaving a bit of hum, but the noise remains when shunting the other side of R60. Likewise, on the V4 pin 7 side of R61 the noise remains. When I shunt between R61 and R62 the noise goes away leaving the same small hum. When I shunt between R62 and R63 then a very different noise occurs (exactly 60 Hz measured with my Fluke at the speaker jack)Last edited by Tone Meister; 04-14-2014, 03:57 PM.
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Lift one end of R63, does the noise go away?
Did this problem just start one day? Was the OT replaced or were the power tube sockets rewired?Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g-one View PostLift one end of R63, does the noise go away?
Did this problem just start one day? Was the OT replaced or were the power tube sockets rewired?
The problem started as an annoying hum and lasted several shows that way. Then one day in the studio it increased to the point that the amp was unusable. The OT and all tube sockets are stock.
The rub is this: I removed the PCB to inspect the solder side and it is a major PITA to reinstall it. I am not in front of the amp right now, but I plan to: 1) meter that part of the circuit for continuity, 2) replace R60, R61, 3) examine all tube sockets and re-solder every pin
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If you are going to go ahead and replace R60 and R61, seeing as the board is a pain, also replace R62 and R63, and C40.
BUT, before any of that, clip one end of R63 and see what happens. This will greatly help further diagnostics.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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I should have been more clear in my previous post. I had already taken the PCB board out of the chassis yesterday before being called away. I'm back on it this morning, so I reckon I will go ahead and replace R60-R63 and C40 and leave R63 lifted and reinstall the board. That means I'll have to re-pull the board to solder R63 back in at some point. <sigh>Last edited by Tone Meister; 04-15-2014, 08:56 PM.
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