Source for "real" tda1514a

[booj]

Yup! I got burned by an asian supplier on a cheap fake TDA1514A. I saw an article of someone who had a similar problem

Marshall guitar amp TDA1514A repair issues | The 'almost not worth having' blog

He posted a picture of the good and bad IC's. The Good IC had bright bold lettering, and the fake had a more subdued brownish looking label.
So how is knowing what a good IC looks like going to help me? A vendor can post any picture they want. How am I to know?
His answer complete with a UK contact was to get the part from Marshall. I used that contact to no avail, unless the email went into my junk folder.
there is a USA contact,
Kevin (Kdog) Drury
Marshall USA Service
1000 Corporate Grove Dr.
Buffalo Grove, IL 60089
marshall.service@marshallamps.us

Anybody had any success contacting kdog?

[J M Fahey]

I don't even try to get one, just bolt an LM3886 upside down to the heat sink so its pins are *opposite* to the PCB holes (pinout won't match PCB pattern anyway), *or* mount it the same way but lift legs away fron the PCB, trim them somewhat because they are too long, and solder short wires to the proper legs.
You will have a few unused holes, because LM3886 is more modern and "simpler".
So it won't need external compensation or bootstrap .
Treat is as "one big Op Amp replacing another" , so wire +V / -V / +in / -in / Speaker out / etc. legs to matching PCB holes.
Ugly but works.
You'll have to drill a new hole, remember to deburr it, and don't forget proper mica+grease or SilPad.
Amp will sound exactly as before.
EDIT: I forgot, mute is wired different, you'll have to run a 10K resistor from Pin 8 (mute) to -V and decouple it with 100uF x 25V, check how it's done in the LM3886 datasheet.

[Jazz P Bass]

This fake TDA stuff has been going on for a while.
Marshall guitar amp TDA1514A repair issues | The 'almost not worth having' blog

Unless you can find NOS, I would go with the LM3886.

[DrGonz78]

About a year ago I saw them available at MCM electronics and I bought one. It was not a fake and worked perfectly. Now they are out of stock at MCM and who knows even then what your getting.

[Jazz P Bass]

The IC is 'out of production'.

So the fakers are having a field day.

I got transistors from MCM that where bogus.( it was another 'out of production' transistor)
(chopped the top after they failed to see the 'craftsmanship))
I told them about it & they had me send gut shots to there tech dept of the original & the one they sent me.
After a full refund it appears that they do not offer that product anymore.

[soundguruman]

Yup! I got burned by an asian supplier on a cheap fake TDA1514A. I saw an article of someone who had a similar problem

Marshall guitar amp TDA1514A repair issues | The 'almost not worth having' blog

He posted a picture of the good and bad IC's. The Good IC had bright bold lettering, and the fake had a more subdued brownish looking label.
So how is knowing what a good IC looks like going to help me? A vendor can post any picture they want. How am I to know?
His answer complete with a UK contact was to get the part from Marshall. I used that contact to no avail, unless the email went into my junk folder.
there is a USA contact,
Kevin (Kdog) Drury
Marshall USA Service
1000 Corporate Grove Dr.
Buffalo Grove, IL 60089
marshall.service@marshallamps.us

Anybody had any success contacting kdog?

Yes I did contact Kevin.
He said Marshall still has the original part in stock, which you can order from a Marshall Dealer.
This is part number M-TRAN-00004.





I have 3X NOS 1514A, original Phillips, not Chinese.
Yes I am absolutely sure they are real ones.
These have been in a warehouse for the last 20+ years.
I searched all over the country for these, then never used them. What a PAIN that was...and it was pure luck to find them.
But somebody will want them, I'm sure.
PM me and you can buy them for whatever they cost me + shipping.

However if any other part of the circuit is bad, it can be damaged.
This is the mistake many people make.
They find one bad part, and replace it. But they miss the other bad parts.
So it's not always the fault of the 1514. Sometimes it's lack of troubleshooting experience that causes the new part to fail.
Because other parts of the circuit are still bad....
The part is only as good as the tech who installs it.

Clean the leads of the 1514 thoroughly, or the solder will not flow.
Clean the back of the device, to make sure clean metal is exposed.
Otherwise, the heat will not dissipate properly to the heat sink.
Use a scotch bright metal cleaning pad, before you install the device, make sure the metal connections are all cleaned.

Remember, this is a CAR RADIO AMPLIFIER CHIP. It is NOT Heavy Duty.
The device will power 8-16 ohm loads only.
4 ohm load will overheat the amplifier.
Better make sure your load is correct, because if it's not it will overheat the device.

[drewl]

Ran into a similar problem, discontinued Harris chip amp in some non descript little SS combo.
Think I found one from China some guy had pulled from equipment and was selling the good used ones.