Dead Peaveys on Clist

[tedmich]

An auspicious event approaches; I finally found a broken XXX on Clist! This unit will represent the 5th Peavey amp I have purchased non-functional for a pretty reasonable price. The list is as follows:

Peavey Bravo 112 $50 with burned internal fuse- fixed and raging
Peavey 5150 Sig head $200 with destroyed PA board -resurrection in progress
Peavey 6505+ head $300 with bad Q7 transistor-resurrection in progress
Peavey Ultra 120 head $100 with bad tubes- fixed and raging

My only working amp purchase ;
Peavey Ultra+ 212 60w $200-modded and raging

Guys wants $100 for quiescent XXX which is great because I was going to trade (fixed) 5150 or 6505+ straight across for a working XXX; I think its the best amp for me. My total bill will be under $1000... less than one 6505+ new at GC and hours and hours of fixing fun..

[Chuck H]

My total bill will be under $1000... less than one 6505+ new at GC...

If you sell the amps you've fixed but aren't using you might well come out ahead!

Peavey is the new Traynor! That is, back in the day you couldn't get a broken Fender or Marshall for less than premium prices. But a working Traynor Bassmaster or Guitarmate might be priced at $120 and be just as good! Of course Peavey enjoys more renown now than Traynor did then, but I think the same concept applies. Now that the gear is starting to show on the used market the brands that are most affordable new are showing up dirt cheap used. It doesn't hurt that there is a new paradigm of disposable gear. I think there are fewer amps fixed and maintained than there use to be. With a greater likelihood of replacement either to upgrade or as a matter of convenience or lack of support or local qualified techs. That's where you swoop in!!!

[soundguruman]

If you really want to play it, that's where it's at.
But selling it, you will never get very much for it.
Peavey amps don't sound that great, you will break even at best, most of the time.

Investing in broken Fender, Marshall, Mesa will probably make more money.

[tedmich]

Well my retirement plan may need adjustment with these new insights!

This is my main hobby; broken amps make me very happy, playing them after fixing them makes me happier still.

The XXX is an amazing advancement over the 6505+ and 5150, at least build wise! Modern construction techniques, multiple two layer boards with multi sized vias, better connectors, modern board mounted sockets for the 12AX7s, good FX loop, decent bias circuit. Some odd decisions too, including expensive CNC machined mudflap girl and about 3 lbs of heavy chrome knobs...

The amp was well used with pretty torn up tolex and an "asset retention system" of an exhaust U clamp through the side where the previous owner would chain it up during gigs (!?) The interior is PRISTINE and the problem was just one bad 100 ohm SGR... simple fix!

[gbono]

It looks like you could double your money on most of these purchases - if you discount your time invested. Even with your time invested you are still getting a better return on your money than the S&P 500. The problem with moving to broken Fender, Marshall or Mesa brands is that the initial cash flow goes way up for not any difference in return on assets. My experience selling gear in the SF bay area is that most musicians don't have any money ("collectors" of gear are far and few between) - though there is a sweet spot price where you can turn gear around quickly. Have you checked out reverb.com?

[tedmich]

I have not seen reverb.com but may check it out. I am more an accumulator than a collector though...

The 4X100 Ohms SGRs have been swapped out for 4 x 1k Ohm units from Frys

The plated through holes require a bit of soldering top and bottom to get done right in my hands. The bad 100ohm one has the X on it and its brother had been replaced in the past with a non-Dale version...but still the silly 100 ohm. Will button it up to see if that fixed it, it had 2xEL34 in it when purchased, but I have about 30 crappy Ruby 6L6 which I'll pick 4 "good ones" out of. The guy even threw in the 3 button metal footswitch and 7 pin cable for the $100!

[tedmich]

Well I think I'll recap the old XXX, as I plan to have it a while and IC caps are pretty crappy when new much less 14 years old. On the bright side the really tall chassis and the power supply/preamp boards position means I can fit almost 62mm of cap height on the board so for a few more dollars I can "max cap" it. The average cap value will be 3 times the original values for identical diameters and ~40-50mm heights. All the caps will be 105C rated and 3000h minimum lifespans. And since the capacitance with be 3X I'll rename it: XXX3X

Prospective Mouser order:
667-EEU-FR1V222L 4@$1.65 = $6.60
35VDC 2200uF

647-UPT2W680MHD 2@$3.27 = $6.54
450volts 68uF

667-EEU-FC1J331L 4@$0.90 = $3.60
330uF 63V

667-ECO-S1VA123CA 2@$4.21 = $8.42
12000uF 35v

661-EKMS501V271MR50S 1@$9.89 = $9.89 (!)
500Volts 270uF

667-EET-UQ2V391HA 2@$4.75 = $9.50
390UF 350V

667-EET-HC2V102LF 2@$10.52 = $21.04 (!)
1000UF 350V

for $65 I'll get no beeswax and Au foil but it will probably sound better than new...

(The 22uF 450v PS caps could be maxed out to 180uF 450v for $7.06 each but that would be 8.2X!)

[g1]

And since the capacitance with be 3X I'll rename it: XXX3X

With that kind of filtering maybe you should call it the XXX "stiffy" .

[tedmich]

I am going to add a JSX resonance/presence dual concentric pot circuit in the hole for the 3 way switch and thought I'd price another of the silly heavy metal chrome knobs...YIKES! $11 on the ebay!
USA Made Genuine Peavey Triple XXX JSX XXL Chrome Knob Amp Knob Push on Type | eBay
I didn't know I got ~$200 worth of knobs with this $100 amp!

I guess Mouser is splitting orders now, got a cryptic email saying to expect (2) packages....I got in the big 500v 270uF Nippon Chemi Con in
forgot they come in pre-faded black (Hershey syrup brown) oh well I''ll skip the acrylic view panel on the amp bottom I'd planned...also got the RGP02-20E-E3/73 diodes in to replace the SR-2873's that destroyed my 5150 PA board YEAH!

[Enzo]

Did you contact the PV parts department and ASK them what they charge for those knobs?


Mouser is not one little store with a guy. it is a huge complex, and if you order a parts list that is not all in the same warehouse, you will get a package from each.



Having said that, is there not a shipping option you can select for all one shipment, though it might take a couple days longer?

[nashvillebill]

Did you contact the PV parts department and ASK them what they charge for those knobs?...

About 10 years ago I bought a Peavey Databass cheap, it was missing a couple of knobs. I emailed Peavey's part departments asking how much the knobs were. Two days later I opened the mailbox and found a small envelope from Peavey's parts department: two knobs free of charge.

So, do I recommend Peavey amps? Hell yeah!

[soundguruman]

I see dead peaveys.

[soundguruman]

Well I think I'll recap the old XXX, as I plan to have it a while and IC caps are pretty crappy when new much less 14 years old. On the bright side the really tall chassis and the power supply/preamp boards position means I can fit almost 62mm of cap height on the board so for a few more dollars I can "max cap" it. The average cap value will be 3 times the original values for identical diameters and ~40-50mm heights. All the caps will be 105C rated and 3000h minimum lifespans. And since the capacitance with be 3X I'll rename it: XXX3X

Prospective Mouser order:
667-EEU-FR1V222L 4@$1.65 = $6.60
35VDC 2200uF

647-UPT2W680MHD 2@$3.27 = $6.54
450volts 68uF

667-EEU-FC1J331L 4@$0.90 = $3.60
330uF 63V

667-ECO-S1VA123CA 2@$4.21 = $8.42
12000uF 35v

661-EKMS501V271MR50S 1@$9.89 = $9.89 (!)
500Volts 270uF

667-EET-UQ2V391HA 2@$4.75 = $9.50
390UF 350V

667-EET-HC2V102LF 2@$10.52 = $21.04 (!)
1000UF 350V

for $65 I'll get no beeswax and Au foil but it will probably sound better than new...

(The 22uF 450v PS caps could be maxed out to 180uF 450v for $7.06 each but that would be 8.2X!)

10,000 hour, 105 C or higher is the way to go. The better ones only cost a few cents more.

Illinois Capacitor = Chinese, I won't buy them.
Japanese caps = Much better quality.

[tedmich]

in a perfect world all EL caps would be 10k h and 105C but I need specific diameters and voltages and 10k h caps are a pretty limited supply. My hard fast rule is to not have hard fast rules.

[tedmich]

finished up the re cap! also added most of my Ultra mods to give more low end, less fizz and replacing quite a few signal path resistors with MF and ceramics with film


bigger caps sitting on their little old cousins from Illinois (China really)

all soldered up!