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Marshall DSL 50 blowing switching P.S. fuses

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  • Marshall DSL 50 blowing switching P.S. fuses

    JCM2-61-00 (2001) iss5.pdfJCM2-62-02 (2001) iss3.pdf

    The circuit works for a few seconds until the fuses blow. The components I have checked are on drawings 61-00 and 62-02 in the C5 and C4 area respectively. The fuses are in the D5 area of the 62-02.

    On drawing 61-00, the transistors TR1, 2, and 3 check good with a diode check, as does D4. It looks like D3 is a capacitor in the drawing but there is no part there on the board.

    On drawing 62-02, D1 and D2 check good. I pulled C15 and C29 and they check good with a cap checker. I also re-flowed the solder on all the jacks on the output board. there were small cracks in the solder on the footswitch jack. I did that before I blew the first set of fuses, which as I said, lasted a few seconds.

    It looks to me like the front panel switch SW2 for clean or dirty shorts the +24v supply for the red LED circuit after the 1K resistor R45. That would put 24VDC across 1K for a 240ma. draw. Kind of like killing a fly with a baseball bat.

    The + / - 15 volt supply looks good. I connected a 9 volt battery with the correct respective polarity to the anode of D5 and the cathode of D3 and got the same voltage out of each side. I'll be pulling those caps anyway, but at this point I'm a bit frustrated because I can't see anything wrong, and I'm wondering if anybody else has had this particular issue or would like to chime in with an idea. I've checked previous posts on this forum.

    Very appreciative of your time.

    For reference here are the rest of the drawings.
    JCM2-60-02 (2001) iss7.pdfJCM2-63-02 (2001) iss6.pdf

  • #2
    JCM2-61-00 (2001) iss5.pdfHmmmm. I'm not seeing the 61-00 drawing. Here it is. It showed up in the original message but not in the posted one.

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    • #3
      Have you tried divide-and-conquer? You can narrow down by pulling CON4 and CON3. If you then isolate to JCM2-62-00 you can pull the 270 ohm resistors to isolate further.

      BTW, I think you meant 24mA above
      Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

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      • #4
        Thankyou kindly nickb. Will try. And yup, .024A is 24 ma.

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        • #5
          first, I shorted the fuses temporarily. and pulled one end of D3 through D6, put the amp on the on position and the standby in the off position. I clipped a meter across R21, then plugged the amp in. (I can unplug faster than I can turn off the amp) and measured the voltage across it and got 3.13 volts with the red LED switched on and 5.35 volts with the green LED on. That's 31 ma. and 53 ma. Unplugged and re-soldered the diodes, then lifted R21. then I measured the voltage drop across R22 and R23 and got 12.8 volts across each one. That's 47 ma. Not enough to blow the fuses I wouldn't think. Then I looked at the new fuses I bought and the old ones and realized I installed fast blow fuses instead of slow blow. They are now on order. Regardless of that, I did notice that my fluke went crazy for a few seconds before it settled down. Maybe I'm dealing with a surge current, or, maybe I have fixed the beast already when I re-flowed the cracked solder joints. I'll be back with more of my story after the proper fuses arrive.

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