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I have this huge extremely heavy cabinet here for repair....It has two 15's and a horn.....the horn was dead......due to the fact that this cabinet is used outdoors for festivals, it is subjected to moisture and dampness.....the horn itself had checked ok....so I suspected the crossover...after poking around for abit, I discovered that there was a capacitor labeled C6 which was soldered to the board but had a fractured lead between the body of the component and the solder joint on the other side..
it was fractured where it passes through the board and the customer was complaining about the horn cracking...this capacitor was actually secured to the board with some RTV silicone...so it really couldn't move....I am no expert here by any means, but I would assume that the high freq overtones.....maybe the ones that you can't hear caused this section of lead to vibrate at a very fast rate and had eventually snapped the lead completely in two.....same as if you had cut it with a pair of cutters...every other component was fine....
also.....there is a switch which is used to select bi-amp mode or full range mode....if it is switched to bi-amp mode, the horn is dis-connected so you have to make sure it is set right....and finally, you don't need a 2000W amp to check out the crossover for a dead horn or woofer...I used a portable cd player with a headphone out and ran that into the crossover and connected up a small 3 inch spkr to the horn connections...when I found the problem I was able to get sound in the speaker....once I change the speakon connectors (as they are corroded), I am going to coat all the jacks with a moisture resistant paste like one would find in the tail light lenses back in the day to prevent moisture from corroding connections in the future....after that, I will run the cab through a power amp just to make sure everything is fine....
it was fractured where it passes through the board and the customer was complaining about the horn cracking...this capacitor was actually secured to the board with some RTV silicone...so it really couldn't move....I am no expert here by any means, but I would assume that the high freq overtones.....maybe the ones that you can't hear caused this section of lead to vibrate at a very fast rate and had eventually snapped the lead completely in two.....same as if you had cut it with a pair of cutters...every other component was fine....
also.....there is a switch which is used to select bi-amp mode or full range mode....if it is switched to bi-amp mode, the horn is dis-connected so you have to make sure it is set right....and finally, you don't need a 2000W amp to check out the crossover for a dead horn or woofer...I used a portable cd player with a headphone out and ran that into the crossover and connected up a small 3 inch spkr to the horn connections...when I found the problem I was able to get sound in the speaker....once I change the speakon connectors (as they are corroded), I am going to coat all the jacks with a moisture resistant paste like one would find in the tail light lenses back in the day to prevent moisture from corroding connections in the future....after that, I will run the cab through a power amp just to make sure everything is fine....
Thanks for the help though I really appreciate it.
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