On the look out for a tube tester!!

[Enzo]

It is a versatile machine. Mine would also make an effective position control for my shop door.

[DrGonz78]

So after reviewing all the great feedback here I am still on the fence whether or not to get a tube tester. Although, I am now sort of leaning away from the B&K model and looking towards a Mercury 1101CT Tube Tester. I think this Mercury tester might be what I am looking to get. It tests all the modern tubes easily and I have found a great deal of resources for it online. It is simple, works great, and a good price. There is one I am looking at online that measures tubes as accurately as the owners other known good unit. The seller is offering up a bag full of tubes for practicing purposes too. Still I am not convinced I really need another foot rest in my shop...

Either way I think for around $100 it won't break the bank, so I might just go for it! Any reason I should stay away from the Mercury 1101CT Tube Tester model? Thanks again for everyone's great feedback! I am very lucky to have so many people around the world that take the time here at MEF to help me on my conquests.

[tedmich]

I believe no (Hickok originated) transconductance on this Mercury unit, so a bit less data for your money. I think the $ is usually better spent on actual tubes, but tube testers can be fun and pretty, good luck.

[Audiotexan]

So after reviewing all the great feedback here I am still on the fence whether or not to get a tube tester.

Don't be dissauded. If you want one, there's probably a reason, and even if all it is is to satisfy a base curiosity, or occasional use...then I'd say go for it! Either way, you'll learn something in the experience.

The key IMO is to make sure to not bite off too big a chunk, yet not get stuck with a junker either.

There's basically three levels, in my outlook:

One (top tier) - things like the Amplitrex AT1000. (And there's only a couple of modern made that fit into this level/caliber of tester.) BIG BIG money, but highly useful in providing results/details on tubes that mainly only engineers/designers will ever use to their fullest. (These do everything that the following do, and a whole lot more)
--Typical ebay prices that I've seen: 800+

Dynamic Mutual Transconductance Tester:
Actually tests tubes *closer* to real world working voltages, and give you the best indication (for the money) of a tube's condition, as well as some useful specs (once calibrated) to compare tubes against each other (same model, eg: 12a-7). Although bear in mind that most of these operate at B+ levels substantially below the 350-500v that we're using in tube amps when testing output tubes.
--Typical ebay prices that I've seen: 125-800 (decent to excellent condition)

Emissions Tester:
The most basic, and typically only for seeing if a tube is 'bad'.
*However* they can be somewhat useful in checking/comparing "gain" (emission) on small signal tubes (especially dual triodes, eg: 12a-7). So I still like an emission tester for small stuff. But don't even think about getting a useful reading on output tubes on one of these...just a rough 'good or bad'.
--Typical ebay prices that I've seen: 50-125 (decent to excellent condition)

Although, I am now sort of leaning away from the B&K model and looking towards a Mercury 1101CT Tube Tester. I think this Mercury tester might be what I am looking to get. It tests all the modern tubes easily and I have found a great deal of resources for it online. It is simple, works great, and a good price. There is one I am looking at online that measures tubes as accurately as the owners other known good unit. The seller is offering up a bag full of tubes for practicing purposes too. Still I am not convinced I really need another foot rest in my shop...

Well, if it's the one I linked above, then I'd say that's not a bad little tester.
But again, if you don't think you'll use it all that much/often...then that may be a bit high to spend. I think if you kept an eye out, you could find a SICO (Superior Instruments Corp) or Precision branded tester for less, that would do the same thing. Just my .02 (FWIW, I started out 20-30 something years ago with a SICO, and it did fine for me at the time, as the majority of my tubes were small signal at the time. I sold it once I got my Hickok 539b, but I found it was quite useful for it's purpose at the time.)

Either way I think for around $100 it won't break the bank, so I might just go for it! Any reason I should stay away from the Mercury 1101CT Tube Tester model? Thanks again for everyone's great feedback! I am very lucky to have so many people around the world that take the time here at MEF to help me on my conquests.

As above, it's only an Emission tester, but, if that suits the majority of your needs, then there's nothing wrong with that!
Also, I found a nice little page on Mercury testers and it says:

Electrically, Model 1101 uses the same test circuit as Model 990 (described in detail above), which is Dynamic Cathode Emission, Shorts Test, and Leakage Test. The neon lamp is sensitive to 2 MΩ, although the tester is factory set at the standard 1 MΩ leakage sensitivity. You could change R5 resistor for up to 2 MΩ sensitivity if desired.

Servicing

Use the same basic procedure as described for Model 990. Of course, the components are obviously designated differently. Here is a brief summary:

For Emission calibration, the loads are found in Switch W, with Position ‘A’ (R6) being your primary focus, and calibrated using uniform 6L6 tubes.
Switch X connects (in most tubes) the cathode to the meter for testing. In full-wave rectifiers, the plate is connected here.
Switch Y sets the heater voltage.
Switch Z connects (in most tubes) the Control Grid to the return circuit. In diodes (not to be confused with full-wave rectifiers), the Plate is connected here. Examples are 6H6 and 6Q7.
The Shorts/Leakage test is automatic on this model. Once you setup controls X,Y,Z as indicated on the tube chart, and then insert your tube, the Shorts/Leakage test is automatically engaged. You do not need to engage any buttons/switches/knobs. If the Leakage lamp does not light after tube warmup, you do not have K-G1 or K-H leakage within the given sensitivity, and can proceed to the Emission test.
Shorts Test functionality can be quickly checked for all pin positions: when Switches X and Z are in the same numbered positions (1-1, 2-2, etc…except for 12-12), the Shorts light should be bright, otherwise you have an open in the circuit. The exception is 12-12, which does not light.

Just in case you do pull the trigger on that one!

[Audiotexan]

Also, if you haven't taken the time to read Tales From The Tone Lounge; The Idiot's Guide To TubeTesters! I'd recommend it.

While some of it is colorful, it's also very informative, and it's fairly easy to see (reading between the lines) what he's biased towards, and against. More importantly, he gives reasons why the majority of the time. So you can see if his idea(s) fall in line with your own.


It's a bit nostalgia, a bit tech, and a bit history all wrapped up in one site. *chuckles* I dig that.

Also, at the bottom of that page, he puts up a couple of short checklists comparing units suitable uses:
- Are You Repairing Old Radios?
- Are You Repairing Guitar Amplifiers?
and the pro's/con's of each.

[stokes]

I used a Tripplet 3444 for years.It uses higher voltages than most testers,but like most testers its most useful function was the shorts test.It also had a plate current feature that was useful for matching tubes.But they are expensive.I recently built a uTracer that you buy as a kit for about 300 bucks.What you get is the main board that interfaces with a computer and you connect it to an array of sockets/switches that you can design yourself.I didnt use any switches since the only tubes I use are guitar amp tubes so I have a small box with an octal socket for 6L6 type,one 9 pin for EL84 type and one 9 pin for 12A_7 types.I plan to add a couple more sockets for the less common 7199,6CG7 preamp and 7591 power tubes.This tester can be used as a curve tracer or in the "quick test" mode which gives plate current,mu or amplification factor plate resistance and a life expectancy which is denoted in a % scale.I find it most useful for the mu factor in preamp tubes.Many that tested for excellent gm on the Tripplet show the same on the uTracer but dont always have a high mu.As has been said before,the best test is in the circuit you will use the tube in,but tube testers can be interesting,and the more parameters you can test for the more useful the tester.You can read about this tester here The uTracer, a miniature Tube Tester / Curve Tracer. reading this it may seem quite complicated,but once you start using it,it gets easy to use.The guy who designed and sells this is very helpful and even paid for shippng back to Holland to troubleshoot a problem with mine after I built it.

[big_teee]

Also, if you haven't taken the time to read Tales From The Tone Lounge; The Idiot's Guide To TubeTesters! I'd recommend it.

While some of it is colorful, it's also very informative, and it's fairly easy to see (reading between the lines) what he's biased towards, and against. More importantly, he gives reasons why the majority of the time. So you can see if his idea(s) fall in line with your own.


It's a bit nostalgia, a bit tech, and a bit history all wrapped up in one site. *chuckles* I dig that.

Also, at the bottom of that page, he puts up a couple of short checklists comparing units suitable uses:
- Are You Repairing Old Radios?
- Are You Repairing Guitar Amplifiers?
and the pro's/con's of each.

I can't get the link to work!

[g1]

The link is working for me.

[Audiotexan]

Odd.. just double checked it, and it seems fine here as well