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Variation of Fender ticking Tremolo suppression

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  • Variation of Fender ticking Tremolo suppression

    I know this is a well-trodden path on the 'ticking' Fender Tremolo circuit using the neon-LDR circuit. In this case, it's a re-issue '65 Fender Deluxe Reverb, where I'm just beginning Preventative Maintenance work on 13 of them in our rental inventory. While listening to this first amp, there was that all-too-familiar low level ticking that wouldn't shut up. Yes, you can, of course turn it off with the foot pedal, but I remembered having dealt with that problem a few years ago on one of the Fender amps.

    After not finding it highlighted in any of my Fender notes, I found it in an email with David Lamkins back in 2010 where I was servicing a Vibro-King...same amp he had written his notes on. This being a re-issue of the '65 Deluxe Reverb, apart from the short leads off the tube socket to the PCB, there's no lead dress to fiddle with. After trying 22nF across the lamp, as well as from the top of the lamp/100k resistor R47 (to the HT supply) to ground, neither of those eliminated the ticking, though did lower it and took the sharp edge off the conductive spike when the lamp turned on or off. Next, not really wanting to pull the PCB up to get to the back side of the PCB to do the surgery, I decided to cut the HT side of the 10M plate resistor R45, and take it to ground, as well as add a 68k resistor from the junction of the top of the lamp and R47 (100k), effectively putting a voltage divider between that 100k and ground, where the neon lamp is the current path to the plate of V5B.....which was David's approach David Lamkins - Guitarist - Vibro-King "Ticking Tremolo" Fix.

    I heard a substantial reduction of the ticking....I could hear it in the phones thru my analyzer, but not thru the speaker, while with signal applied, I had plenty of intensity control. When I looked at the tacked-in 68k shunt, I discovered I had NOT connected it to the top of the lamp, but to HT (other side of R47). When I corrected it's placement, the ticking was once again very noticeable. Interesting. I then removed the 68k resistor and also the 10M from the circuit, so the only current path for V5B was thru the 100k & lamp. The ticking couldn't be heard in the speaker, as it behaved when I made the mistake.

    I thought I had read somewhere that Fender had, at one point, NO 10M in the plate circuit across the lamp/100k resistor. I couldn't find it anywhere in all my Fender schematics. I did read in a long thread from 2009 "Fender AB763 Style Optocoupled Tremolo Circuit Question" started by Wilder Amplification, where Enzo stated that the 10M resistor was added to help eliminate the ticking. In this once instance with the Deluxe Reverb I have on the bench, it may just be a fluke. I'll know more tomorrow as I roll in more of the amps for scrutiny.

    The 22nF cap that I had tried never eliminated the ticking, only lowered and altered it some. Things that I haven't tried is lifting the connection to HT & Ground from where they are placed on the PCB, if it happens to be coupling the ticking by either of those paths.
    Last edited by nevetslab; 11-26-2014, 07:03 AM.
    Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

  • #2
    Solution in three letters: L. E. D.

    I swap out the neon (how 19th century!) for a super-bright yellow or orange LED. Tick gone. End hours of faffing - I've done it too - sticking caps here and decoupling resistors there. A quick trip to your local Fry's or whatever you have in your neighborhood - those surplus dealers along the main drag in Burbank or maybe even Apex Jr - at worst order a bunch from Mouser. They're cheap. YAY!

    How long do they last? Don't know. So far so good. I've been doing it a couple years and nobody's brought back a non working LED vibrato bug yet.

    Other colors? Someone else will have to research this. I used what I had, yellow & orange, works great.

    Long lead goes to the 100K, short lead to the 10M.

    Sure beats spraying the amp down with Tick-B-Gone.
    This isn't the future I signed up for.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
      Solution in three letters: L. E. D.


      How long do they last? Don't know. So far so good. I've been doing it a couple years and nobody's brought back a non working LED vibrato bug yet.

      Long lead goes to the 100K, short lead to the 10M.
      Yeah....you're right! And, a good excuse to increase billable hours, as I'm just starting in on the Fender amps for Preventative Maintenance/Repairs. Not all of them do tick audibly, (unless you stick your ears to the speaker or listen with headphones, finding it IS still ticking)..... but that change to the LED will cure it, since the tick is from the sudden conduction of the neon lamp, causing about a 30V drop at the threshold of around 90V. At least that's what I've read. Good excuse to scope it and photo-document it while in there doing surgery. I needed to pad the next Mouser order anyway, so might as well at least prepare for that.

      David Lamkins had recommended RED for the LED, mostly because at the same operating current they are brighter (higher voltage drop on the other colors), and Frosted so it diffuses the light to the LDR cell.


      Thanks for the reminder on the LED solution. Still odd that removing the 10M resistor rendered a big improvement.
      Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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      • #4
        Lead Dress tweaks with scope photos of 'stock' Vibrato Neon Lamp/LDR Circuit

        While I haven't pulled up any of the Deluxe Reverb main PCB's to change over to LED from Neon Lamp, I did find, as have others before me, revising the lead dress of the plate, cathode and grid leads of V5B DO YIELD SUBSTANTIAL IMPROVEMENT in audible ticking noise heard from the Vibrato circuit.

        Having another Deluxe Reverb combo amp on the bench with noticeable vibrato 'ticking noise' in the speakers, I took photos of the lead dress on this Re-issue PCB version of the amp and the lead wires of V5B before tweaking them. I took scope photos of the output in the loudspeaker as well as clipped a X10 probe, AC coupled onto the plate of V5B, so we can see the turn-on and turn-off waveform of the neon lamp. The lead dress adjustment of the plate lead yields the biggest change.

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        As can be seen looking at the plate waveform that couples to the neon lamp, as pointed out by David Lamkins, it is indeed that sudden drop in voltage and the conduction of the neon lamp, as well as the turn-off of the lamp's current that causes the high frequency conduction spikes that produce the very audible ticking.

        Adjusting the lead dress is a short-term 'fix' in the residual noise on the amp, enough so you are not conscious of the ticking noise in the speaker. It's still there, as we can well see in the waveforms, but low enough in level not to be noticed (unless nit-picking).

        This also shows me that anytime I have to lift up the main PCB to go do surgery elsewhere in the amp, and the neon version of the vibrato bug is present, this has to be re-tweaked.

        I'll post results when I change some over to the LED, replacing the Neon lamp. Gotta wait for parts to arrive.

        BTW, the output waveforms are taken thru my Amber 3501a Audio Analyzer connected to the output of the amp so the RF envelope and conduction spikes are relative. I was AC coupled with the X10 scope probe @ 20V/Div when I was looking at the plate of V5B pin 6.
        Last edited by nevetslab; 12-02-2014, 03:20 AM.
        Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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        • #5
          Awesome thread. The voltage present for the neon lamp is acceptable for LEDs?
          --
          I build and repair guitar amps
          http://amps.monkeymatic.com

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          • #6
            Originally posted by xtian View Post
            The voltage present for the neon lamp is acceptable for LEDs?
            Well first of all current sure is limited by that 10 meg resistor. I think you'd find the voltage gets clamped by the zener-like breakover of the LED, and likely the LED is on for a longer fraction of the oscillation period than the flash of the neon. Will have to research further to see if this is really the case. So far no LED's gone up in smoke nor any other circus failures.
            This isn't the future I signed up for.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
              Well first of all current sure is limited by that 10 meg resistor.
              I was under the impression you had installed your LED in series with the 100k resistor (anode), and the cathode connected to the plate. Did you also leave the 10M resistor from the plate to HT? That's a direct replacement of the neon lamp in the circuit. Looking at the voltages, HT is around 394VDC, and with the neon in the circuit, the schematic shows OFF voltage level at the 100k/neon lamp at 330V, about 640uA, and when it fires, it's around 70V lower for that short duration, or 260V, looking at the Deluxe Reverb schematic. With the LED, we're only going to be seeing less than 2V change between on and off. The voltage will be higher, but still very low current, so, no potential harm to the LED. I'd think the 10M isn't needed, unless that's needed for V5B when the LFO isn't driving V5B into conduction.

              I'll look at this during this week, as I'm going thru our Deluxe Reverb inventory.

              In David Lamkin's mod using the LED, he didn't mention anything about the 10M resistor, though he did effectively take it out of circuit when the Neon lamp was still being used.
              Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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              • #8
                Well, this is very black-belt Fender repair knowledge here, and I heartily encourage you to continue to post. I have no opto-driven trems to mess with, only bias-wiggle. Thanks!
                --
                I build and repair guitar amps
                http://amps.monkeymatic.com

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by nevetslab View Post
                  I was under the impression you had installed your LED in series with the 100k resistor (anode), and the cathode connected to the plate. Did you also leave the 10M resistor from the plate to HT?
                  Just swapped in LED for neon, "without benefit of the thought process" thanks Click 'n Clack. 10M left in place.

                  "Black Belt" LG Ha, if I stay on this track I'll be ready for the Sumo Ski Jump pretty soon.
                  This isn't the future I signed up for.

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