Yet another Bugera 333 XL - 212 fuse blows at power up

[TrajanGregory]

Hey .... It was the R2000F, which I bought either from Digikey or Mouser .... It was dirt cheap with little minimum ... under $15 total for ten of each ... I also bought some of the 4007 (actually 5408 now ? ... uprated part) ...

I was just playing like 5 minutes ago .... still shaking my head for how awesome this thing sounds ... killer tube tone ... Overdriving this beast brings out the most bell like harmonics ...

Dude .. in my case, it was D4 ... and yes, you have to lift the power amp board on the bottom of the chassis (has EL34's attached) and flip it over .... There are a number of wire harness connectors you can demate, but ONLY after first using two pieces of tape on each connector, naming each mate pair before disconnecting ... You will figure it out ...

Change both D3 and D4 while you have it open ....

BUT ... If you have an active warranty, you will want to first consider returning it under warranty ... That is always the best option, but, hey, I am a tech .... I fix boards on a daily basis ... just not tube circuits so much ... I know own this fucker, but it is definitely kicking ass right now ... I had a session today that just screamed .... Using a POD in the loop, of all things ...

[Jazz P Bass]

The diode that Fender uses is a R3000.

https://www.tubedepot.com/products/r...otection-diode

[Stratovarius]

Hey .... It was the R2000F, which I bought either from Digikey or Mouser .... It was dirt cheap with little minimum ... under $15 total for ten of each ... I also bought some of the 4007 (actually 5408 now ? ... uprated part) ...

I was just playing like 5 minutes ago .... still shaking my head for how awesome this thing sounds ... killer tube tone ... Overdriving this beast brings out the most bell like harmonics ...

Dude .. in my case, it was D4 ... and yes, you have to lift the power amp board on the bottom of the chassis (has EL34's attached) and flip it over .... There are a number of wire harness connectors you can demate, but ONLY after first using two pieces of tape on each connector, naming each mate pair before disconnecting ... You will figure it out ...

Change both D3 and D4 while you have it open ....

BUT ... If you have an active warranty, you will want to first consider returning it under warranty ... That is always the best option, but, hey, I am a tech .... I fix boards on a daily basis ... just not tube circuits so much ... I know own this fucker, but it is definitely kicking ass right now ... I had a session today that just screamed .... Using a POD in the loop, of all things ...

I never fill out those cards, not even sure if it was Sweatwater, Musicians Friend....I'll go for the fix. It is possible even if I find the paperwork that the
warranty is kaput.
I have like 4 zoomg2's (run one at a time) I use for preamps, get some great sounds too. Nice to find a decent tone.
I really like the ZoomG5 if not for the lack of Standard User Bank.

My last career was teaching HS, before that electrical contractor, not lots of techy stuff at all, but like to fix my stuff if I can.
I've thought about trying 6l6's for shits and giggles to see if that fender twin sag will come out of this amp.
I use the stock Bugera 412 cabinet mostly , good enough to fool my tenitis. LOL...



Thanks!! , will post once I get more parts in....

[Stratovarius]

The diode that Fender uses is a R3000.

https://www.tubedepot.com/products/r...otection-diode

Thanks man, I'll order tomorrow, I just looked ebay , no local stock , just china.....

[Enzo]

Those are not germanium, by the way, just plain old high voltage silicon.

Almost all manufacturers need really only one thing - a copy of your sales receipt. We call that proof of purchase. You have a warranty whether you mail in the card or not. A lot of companies will tell you they have a two year warranty but will make it five if you send in the card. Isn't that worth the trouble? Besides, companies like Peavey say they have the 2/5 year thing, but in reality they honor the full five years no matter what.

MAke a file folder or large envelope somewhere, and just keep the receipts when you buy stuff. it only has to pay off once to save you hundreds of dollars. Not only that, most real sellers of amps can generate a new copy of your sales receipt if you ask them. Just call them and tell them you need a new proof-of-purchase for warranty repair purposes.

The place to look for these diodes is not ebay or china, it is a real parts house like Mouser or Digikey. And if you can't identify a part at those places, we can help there too.

[Stratovarius]

Great thread Greg, and thanks all for the great help with my own problem.
UPDATE:

Was a bit of a biatch removing pin connectors, particularly on the power board (I couldn't get the one next to D3 off , thinking it probably does not come off without removing the hot glue?, filling the quick connect) , most of the connectors that needed to come off the power board to get them out of the way were easy , I just left the bigger 6 or 7 pin
power connector connected, it was on so tight I thought I better leave it be since I was able to manipulate the board with it on.
What I can't figure out about the hot glue issue, is that some of the pins glued don't need to be pulled apart from the m/female connector
they just come off the board seperating from the board pins, but it seams that some of them have the male part actually soldered to the board,
I'm not clear on that.

So I was able to replace D4 , tested it removed and was shorted, tested D3 on the board since it was really hard to get at due to a two pin connector right next to it, it tested ok (normally I don't expect to be able to get a reliable reading from a diode that has both ends connected),
considering the difficulty removing D3 and possibly ruinning adjacent connection/s, I left it in.

Powered up board on standby for ten minute, flipped up standby to on, standby light started flashing slow then fast, looked in back 3 of 4 tubes bad according
to indicator lights. Amp also sounded very thin and weak. I wish the tube 'health' indicator lights were in front , would be more useful to me.

Anyway I'll be ordering a new set of EL84's or 6L6's.

Recap: When the initial problem started, there was no flashing light or anything, and I have no idea if the tube monitor lights were on , the fuse jsut blew as the
lights in the room dimmed. (so of course I don't know if the amp flickered the lights in the room , or a power spike blue the fuse and whatever else on the board)
so in a way it is possible that I have a new problem, won't know the answer to that probably until I get some new tubes in.

[Stratovarius]

I just pulled out the tubes and turned on the amp , no flashing standby light,, but after a few minutes the standby light is flashing.