Thanks all for your input. I found the problem without flipping the amps pcb. The 150 pf silver mica cap from v2a plate to the trebble pot was leaking dc. i didnt have one but the amp is mouse quiet with a 47 pf silver mica. Not sure how much that affects the tone, but the amp Sounds pretty good to my abused ears. I suspect 150 pf was selected carefully as it isn't a value i see much. And finding anything silver mica here would be from me. Any opinions about parallel pair or trio of the 47 pf caps to get closer to the schematic value?
I agree that if they are designed to be easily worked on, have chassis mounted jacks pots and sockets AND are robust boards with more than token foil traces, laid out not to cause proximity capacitance issues or arcing, they are the cost effective way to produce a tube amp. That being said, most manufacturers including fender and traynor whos early amps i praised earlier in this thread, are more concerned with the bottom line and pump out stuff destined for the dump, especially if they are gigged. I have resolderd or jumpered countless broken board mounted jacks and pots and socketS for mechanical failure and bad wave soldering. They are a bad idea even with smooth roads and good vehicles. Put, speed bumps, cobblestone roads and cars with bad suspension, if the even get past the warranty its a miracle. Anyway, i cant imagine a tube tablet or smart phone😊 so i greatly appreciate well made pcb devices.
Re the freezing, why wouldn't a Can of 134a automotive freon and the hose/valve assy sold to add it to the system work? I could cobble up an adapter from an ac fitting and copper tube to reduce the orifice size for more pinpoint application. 134a is what i found for cooling electronics.
Thanks again. please add any input re the parallel resistor idea i mentioned above.
I agree that if they are designed to be easily worked on, have chassis mounted jacks pots and sockets AND are robust boards with more than token foil traces, laid out not to cause proximity capacitance issues or arcing, they are the cost effective way to produce a tube amp. That being said, most manufacturers including fender and traynor whos early amps i praised earlier in this thread, are more concerned with the bottom line and pump out stuff destined for the dump, especially if they are gigged. I have resolderd or jumpered countless broken board mounted jacks and pots and socketS for mechanical failure and bad wave soldering. They are a bad idea even with smooth roads and good vehicles. Put, speed bumps, cobblestone roads and cars with bad suspension, if the even get past the warranty its a miracle. Anyway, i cant imagine a tube tablet or smart phone😊 so i greatly appreciate well made pcb devices.
Re the freezing, why wouldn't a Can of 134a automotive freon and the hose/valve assy sold to add it to the system work? I could cobble up an adapter from an ac fitting and copper tube to reduce the orifice size for more pinpoint application. 134a is what i found for cooling electronics.
Thanks again. please add any input re the parallel resistor idea i mentioned above.
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