Peavey VTM 60 Molex connectors

[gbono]

The two molex connectors sitting next to the 400 ohm resistor on the power supply filter board are scorched. They appear to be working but look ugly. Besides soldering the wires to the board and loosing "repairability" where to find replacement Molex connectors or does someone have the Peavey part number for the connectors (don't need the connector half on the PCB if it a FFF replacement). Nothing in my connector grave yard that works............

[km6xz]

The Molex connectors were a poor choice, most gear using them eventually has problems with the cycle of corrosion>increased resistance>heat>increased corrosion>>>>. Since they are pc mount, the board holes are limiting your choices. More than one manufacturer has sent out service notices to warranty stations to pull the Molex and solder directly to the board. Low voltage, high current circuits are the most likely to fail because of the burning Molex connectors, such as heater connections die more often than higher voltage low current circuits like plate voltage.

[tedmich]

the J2 and J3 connectors?

they're 3 pin but only use 2?

this may work but I have no VTM to measure pins
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...iPtLPuvg%3d%3d


$4.50

[gbono]

Yes J2/3 on the power supply board - 3 conductor only using 2. It looks like J2 needs to be rated for high voltage and J3 is at line voltage potental. It might be easier to just solder the wires to the PCB as Stan suggests.

[Enzo]

It isn't voltage that burns them up, it is current.

Yes, you want the 09 series of connector pins, the smaller 06 series are too small.

[gbono]

THX that molex part number looks like it will work. At least the pitch is the same and the "shape" looks good. I'm guessing that an output tube failed and the connector (J3) and the 400 ohm resistor started roasting....

[g1]

Another option in cases like these is to hardwire at the board ends, and insert an in-line connector in the middle. High current automotive connectors are easy to find and inexpensive.

[Riffraff]

My 6505+ had the exact same problem. I've seen this same issue again and again in Peavey amps that have these in them. Clearly they are a really poor choice for this application.





I pulled the cable and hard wired the boards together.

[gbono]

the J2 and J3 connectors?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33213[/ATTACH]
they're 3 pin but only use 2?

this may work but I have no VTM to measure pins
76650-0058 Molex | Mouser


$4.50

Yes, these work great. Just cut away the old plastic body and the old pins fit and lock without issue. THX tedmich

[The Dude]

My 6505+ had the exact same problem. I've seen this same issue again and again in Peavey amps that have these in them. Clearly they are a really poor choice for this application.





I pulled the cable and hard wired the boards together.

Is that the ribbon that carries filament voltage to the output board? If I'm on the same page here, I've had a few of these in the shop. Just an FYI and if I'm talking about the right connector, you'll notice that the opposite side pin is not used on the board, but is in the ribbon cable anyway. You can just clean the pin(s) on the board and flip the ribbon cable around for a quick fix. The burnt part of the ribbon cable will no longer be used.

Edit: By quick fix, what I mean is if your out gigging and need it working "right now". I don't disagree that the ribbon cable setup is not a reliable way to make the connection.

[Jazz P Bass]

I had to grin at Dude's 'flip the connector'.

Been there. Done that.

What I seem to run into, IF there is a problem with that connector, is crappy solder joints elsewhere in the filament circuit or right there at the board pin.

Challenges the piss out of that connector.

[The Dude]

Yes, I've run into the same thing. There are little jumpers from trace to trace that carry filament voltage that have cold/cracked solder on them. I always check them all.

[Enzo]

If you do the flip, make sure to buff up the surface of the male pins. When they get overheated like that, the surface oxidizes.

But the real fix is to just hardwire and lose the connector. Or at least hardwire the two heater current pins.

[Leo_Gnardo]

But the real fix is to just hardwire and lose the connector. Or at least hardwire the two heater current pins.

Agreed! Seen similar in Crate Blue Voodoo and some Mesa amps (Maverick for instance) using comb connectors to deliver filament current to output tubes. Hardwire is the solution.