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Fender Twin Reverb....silver face

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Tom Phillips View Post
    OK. Hope you work it out. Photos will save you a lot of narrative writing trying to explain things.
    Good Luck,
    Tom
    Ok. Tom....Lets try it again.......nope...says the file is too big.......

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by bsco View Post
      Ok. Tom. I have some pics...Lets see if I can get them posted......sorry won't load up.......I am not really comfortable with this computer stuff.......trying to convert files....resizing files, not knowing what programs to use, etc, etc.......maybe I can email them to you......as I have no idea of what type of program is being used to take these shots.....all I do it point the camera and press the button.....
      There are instructions about uploading photos under "Attachments and Images" in the forum FAQ at Reading and Posting Messages
      If you get the photo files into your computer it is easy to upload. It also makes the discussion more complete, much more valuable to future readers and will allow people to provide you with better help.
      I encourage you to give it a try and ask questions if needed.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by bsco View Post
        Ok. Tom....Lets try it again.......nope...says the file is too big.......
        Ok. for the third time........Click image for larger version

Name:	PIC 1.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	1.58 MB
ID:	837524Click image for larger version

Name:	PIC 1.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	1.58 MB
ID:	837524Click image for larger version

Name:	PIC 2.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	1.62 MB
ID:	837525
        Lets try that........PIC 1 shows that bare wire connected to a lug on a tie strip..the green wire also connects there...That lug is not connected to ground.....there are three lugs on this strip and the lug on the far right on this strip is the one that is grounded when it is screwed down to the chassis......now for PIC 2.....this one has the bare wire directly soldered to a lug on the pilot lamp housing...it goes directly to the lug that also has both 100 ohm resistors connected....the resistors are then connected to ground.......That white protective sleve is what I had put there just to provide some insulation so the wire could not touch the chassis in any way.......I am going to press "Post Quick Reply" now.....lets hope it goes through this time.......
        Cheers.....

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        • #19
          Hey what ya know...it worked!!! well almost I got one pic posted twice......

          Comment


          • #20
            This may sound crazy but I believe those thin wires were used stock as heater fusing.
            Originally posted by Enzo
            I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by g1 View Post
              This may sound crazy but I believe those thin wires were used stock as heater fusing.
              Ok. I was not quite sure as the end of the wire that is connected to the lug on the terminal strip was twisted around but not soldered...while we are on the subject.....one of the diodes in the power supply needs to be replaced...what do you guys think of NTE replacement parts....the local distributor carries NTE replacement parts....

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              • #22
                NTE should be fine. The main problem with them is they are way more expensive than generic equivalent. But if they are handy, you avoid paying shipping and probably come out even or better.
                Originally posted by Enzo
                I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                Comment


                • #23
                  If you are going to be doing more repairs.........it's not a bad idea to get some spare parts.................particularly 1N4007 diodes and the like....................................Make a list and order a stash to save on shipping....................It's an addictive habbit, though.............................

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by patlaw View Post
                    If you are going to be doing more repairs.........it's not a bad idea to get some spare parts.................particularly 1N4007 diodes and the like....................................Make a list and order a stash to save on shipping....................It's an addictive habbit, though.............................
                    I have a few hundred dollars of parts here......semi-conductors, electrolytic and other capacitor types.....diodes etc, relays, transformers,....the list goes on and a few old boards from el cheapo amps that I can sometimes use parts from as well....the store supplies me with tubes so that is one item I don't have to worry about....and I am always adding to it as I plan to be doing this for quite some time.....
                    Cheers...
                    P.S. Sometimes it is just easier to run down to the local electronics store, and we have only one here, and pick up an item here or there and don't have to bother with shipping.......The reason why I had asked about NTE is that I have read mixed feelings about the line...

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                    • #25
                      NTE parts are just repackaged parts from major manufacturers................There's nothing bad about them...except price.............................

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by patlaw View Post
                        NTE parts are just repackaged parts from major manufacturers................There's nothing bad about them...except price.............................
                        While a transistor is a transistor and a diode is a diode, sometimes there are subtle differences in the parts that can create substitution problems.

                        For most of the parts, in the kinds of circuits that we deal with, they probably have a 95% success rate. But every once and a while, the part that they sell is just different enough to cause a circuit to oscillate or to draw too much current or whatever and cause trouble.

                        I used to use some of their IC power amp substitutes, because even though they were sometimes 3 or 4 times the actual cost of the real part, they were easy to find quickly. It also kept me from having to stock a part that in a few months would become totally obsolete.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by 52 Bill View Post
                          While a transistor is a transistor and a diode is a diode, sometimes there are subtle differences in the parts that can create substitution problems.

                          For most of the parts, in the kinds of circuits that we deal with, they probably have a 95% success rate. But every once and a while, the part that they sell is just different enough to cause a circuit to oscillate or to draw too much current or whatever and cause trouble.

                          I used to use some of their IC power amp substitutes, because even though they were sometimes 3 or 4 times the actual cost of the real part, they were easy to find quickly. It also kept me from having to stock a part that in a few months would become totally obsolete.

                          I usually get parts from Digi-Key.....but that is if I have an order for 50 bucks or more.....if I just need a couple of resistors or caps or whatever it is easier and more convenient for me to just run down the road and pick up what I need......all the guys know me there and sometimes if I need a dozen resistors they just give them to me....when it comes to semi-conductors and ic's, then I try to get the original.......
                          Cheers....

                          P.S. I picked up those 3A diodes down there.....NTE brand and while I really need only one I thought it might be a good idea to change all six to keep everything sort of balanced......after all they were very cheap anyway.....

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