Originally posted by TigerAmps
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Ugly distortion with tube amp when you play
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Your input signal is too big - you need reduce it to around 100mV. It's around 2-3V peak right now. The input vol pot shot shows you close to a square wave indicating V1 is being driving to clipping.
This may be a side issue but it's looks like a 45Vpp swing max at that point. I would have expected more. Check the DC at all V1 pins and on it's supply (22K/16uf junction).Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.
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Originally posted by nickb View PostYour input signal is too big - you need reduce it to around 100mV. It's around 2-3V peak right now. The input vol pot shot shows you close to a square wave indicating V1 is being driving to clipping.
This may be a side issue but it's looks like a 45Vpp swing max at that point. I would have expected more. Check the DC at all V1 pins and on it's supply (22K/16uf junction).
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Originally posted by Ampzone View Postvoltage on the supply cap are appx 320 & 260v DC. I will do another scope pass directly.Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.
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Your signal is too loud and to boot, not very significative for a guitar amp.
Download 1kHz tone here Download Audio Tone Files and play it through any MP3player or equivalent.
Not sure about a phone because some "try to protect you" and tame output volume a lot when you use the headphones out, at least my LG does, I hate it.
Any standard cheap player will give you 100 to 200mV RMS out of the headphone out.
That site also has other interesting frequencies, download them all for future tests.Juan Manuel Fahey
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Originally posted by J M Fahey View PostYour signal is too loud and to boot, not very significative for a guitar amp.
Download 1kHz tone here Download Audio Tone Files and play it through any MP3player or equivalent.
Not sure about a phone because some "try to protect you" and tame output volume a lot when you use the headphones out, at least my LG does, I hate it.
Any standard cheap player will give you 100 to 200mV RMS out of the headphone out.
That site also has other interesting frequencies, download them all for future tests.
Fist pics V1 input, 2nd 220pf cap, 220pf and treble pot leg and last Master Vol pot leg running to V3 and a shot of the setting on the scope
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Leave the Marshall transformer outside the chassis (extend the wires if necessary).
I would wire in the the primary (3 wires) on the tube sockets, removing the current OT connections (tape them off to insulate them).
On the secondary, I would use only 2 wires ground and one of the taps (tape the others off to insulate them).
I would wire the 2 secondary wires to a 1/4 inch jack or directly to a speaker.
Also, remove 2 of the 4 (if using 4 ) output tubes and check the bias.
This way you are going directly from the plates of the output tubes to the transformer then directly to the speaker.
I would also start with the feedback wire removed if one exists (taped off as well).
If the distortion still exists, it is before the output tubes.
If it does not exist, it is most likely with the OT or connections/wiring of the OT.
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Last edited by g1; 05-18-2015, 06:22 PM.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by TigerAmps View PostLeave the Marshall transformer outside the chassis (extend the wires if necessary).
I would wire in the the primary (3 wires) on the tube sockets, removing the current OT connections (tape them off to insulate them).
On the secondary, I would use only 2 wires ground and one of the taps (tape the others off to insulate them).
I would wire the 2 secondary wires to a 1/4 inch jack or directly to a speaker.
Also, remove 2 of the 4 (if using 4 ) output tubes and check the bias.
This way you are going directly from the plates of the output tubes to the transformer then directly to the speaker.
I would also start with the feedback wire removed if one exists (taped off as well).
If the distortion still exists, it is before the output tubes.
If it does not exist, it is most likely with the OT or connections/wiring of the OT.
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Originally posted by g1 View PostYour V1 voltages are bad. So there is a problem there. But your V2 voltages show that the preamp schematic you linked is not right for this version. The layout and your voltages indicate only 1/2 of V2 is being used.
Edit: This preamp should better match the layout:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]34009[/ATTACH]
Thank you, I was trying to find the closest layout as the person I got this from had no layout and said it was a ceritone (spelling) kit, it must have changed or was modified a good deal as noted by G1 as it does not match the layout I found.
I will look around V1 and see what gives on the grid.
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