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Fender Super Reverb silverface Hum

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  • #31
    Originally posted by Ampzone View Post
    Should I just add a 2.2k and be done with it. If this would make is safer and less hot.
    Having seen Fender use 2.2k in some of their runs, and no complaint about the reverb tone, I often sub 2.2k into the reverb drive cathode circuit to let that 'AT7 run cooler. You could reduce the bypass cap value or even leave it out entirely. Fender spanks that tank pretty hard, so reducing drive signal to the tank can be a virtue, takes you out of the "full surf" zone. Keep in mind those standalone Fender reverbs, they had a "dwell" control that was a volume control on the tank drive level. You could dial it back for finesse instead of full slam. No handy dwell control on the built-in reverbs, they're set for maximum stun. A little mod here to reduce drive level makes the reverb less crashy sounding.
    This isn't the future I signed up for.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
      Having seen Fender use 2.2k in some of their runs, and no complaint about the reverb tone, I often sub 2.2k into the reverb drive cathode circuit to let that 'AT7 run cooler. You could reduce the bypass cap value or even leave it out entirely. Fender spanks that tank pretty hard, so reducing drive signal to the tank can be a virtue, takes you out of the "full surf" zone. Keep in mind those standalone Fender reverbs, they had a "dwell" control that was a volume control on the tank drive level. You could dial it back for finesse instead of full slam. No handy dwell control on the built-in reverbs, they're set for maximum stun. A little mod here to reduce drive level makes the reverb less crashy sounding.

      Ok then 2.2k it is with a 25uf 25v cap. All in favor say I! I'll make the change.

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      • #33
        Last thing before I button this amp up, I ran my new Anatek ESR meter down the line on the each coupling cap and they all read about the same and what "seem" to be correct numbers. This ESR meter is new to me still getting the hang of it. The only other issues with the amp (since all the power supply caps have been replaced and new tubes added), it likes to kinda pop, fizz or wheeze once in a while. It seems like this may be indicative of old carbon comp resistors?? I checked the 100k plate 2w versions in the amp and they all read within tolerance. I guess it just an old amp?

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        • #34
          Be sure to tell us how the sound compares with the different resistors.
          The carbon comps can read ok and still be noisy, heat or cold can help identify noisy resistors. Also, dirty/oxidized tube sockets are often the culprits for those type of noises.
          Originally posted by Enzo
          I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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          • #35
            Originally posted by g1 View Post
            Be sure to tell us how the sound compares with the different resistors.
            The carbon comps can read ok and still be noisy, heat or cold can help identify noisy resistors. Also, dirty/oxidized tube sockets are often the culprits for those type of noises.
            I will report back, you are reffering to the 2.2k 25uf cap addition right?

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            • #36
              Originally posted by Ampzone View Post
              Ok then 2.2k it is with a 25uf 25v cap. All in favor say I! I'll make the change.
              Aye, try it with and without the cap, you may have to turn the reverb knob up a bit without the bypass cap in place, no big deal. But you might better like what the reverb sounds like. To complicate your life, different bypass caps can alter the reverb frequency response too, values anywhere from say 0.1 uF up to 5 or so, then you might as well jump to 22 uF. It's a place where you can dial in your personal sound if you care to do it. Low value caps give it a high end "peak", higher value caps boost hi's as well as mids at lower frequencies as you increase in cap value.
              This isn't the future I signed up for.

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