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Frontman 212R Power Amp Problem

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  • #16
    Enzo,

    It's alive - I hope
    Hope this isn't too long-winded.

    Been doing some reading. And looking at the schematic. This thing might act like a big servo,
    but it sure looks like the innards of a big, discrete, op amp.

    When I said the output looked like a half wave rectifier, it might not have been
    exactly what was going on. I was using the scope on AC input, and what I was looking
    at might have been a severely clipped output - on the negative side of the waveform.
    Maybe not. Wish I had thought to look for an offset at the ouput with the scope

    The problem is that now I can't get it to mess up. After last post I removed the unleaded/resoldered
    D24, Q9, Q10 and a few other components. After that, I started watching the output with the scope on
    DC. I saw the sine wave start drifting up once, but after a second or two, it was pulled back down.
    Haven't seen it since.

    The next day I replaced the lead-free on the entire power amp section with the good stuff.
    It's still working with no fubars so I don't think I hurt it any.
    It looks better - the lead-free looked dull and many joints were dull gray & grainy
    maybe even whisker-y on some joints.
    (Noticed that when I reflowed a few days earlier that it would look really good and then,
    when it cooled enough, would skin over with what looked like a cold joint.)
    During resoldering noticed that R145 was a little loose and the the trace was, while not broken,
    partially detached and creased at the D58 pad connected to R145. Reinforced it with a piece
    of copper hookup wire just in case.
    BTW, the schematic calls for 200ohm 5W, for R144, R145. This amp has 330ohm 5W.
    They look an identical type to the rest so I'm thinking this was a design revision.

    Got out my old Active Devices textbook.
    Was looking at the diff amp wrong. I thought it was fed at both inputs. Don't think so.
    If I'm looking at it right, it is a single input at base of Q9.

    If I am now seeing this right, U6-B is an input buffer and U6-A is the servoamp (or whatever the correct terms are).
    Both speaker outputs are fed back to the junction of R77 and R69 and then to non-inverting input of U6-A
    and the feedback loop diodes of U6-B.

    Is there a cancellation at R77 & R69 and what's left is fed to U6-A and the base of Q10?
    Is this where the DC offset is detected or controlled?

    I was concerned about the waveform at Q10, but it's working fine, so does it matter?

    Still seems to me that D24 was right in the middle of the problem...whatever it was.

    And that +.5v shift in the output transistor bases...and just about everywhere else I checked...
    is it just a coincedence that it's the same forward voltage drop as many of the diodes in this amp?


    Hate it when something starts working again and I'm not sure why.
    Doesn't make for confidence in future reliablity.
    a sign on the desk of Suzanne Schroeder, collector of bureaucratic gobbledygook, AP wire story, Sarasota Herald-Tribune, July 3, 1973
    “I know that you believe you understand what you think I said, but I’m not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.”

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    • #17
      A note / caution about lead free solder: You can not mix lead free & leaded solder. It will cause all sorts of intermittant problems. The resultant joint is very fragile & breaks easily. It is best to remove all the lead free solder & then resolder with what I call real solder (Leaded).
      When I was repairing cameras, after the advent of lead free solder, I actually used 2 soldering stations: "Leaded" & "Unleaded" depending upon what I was servicing. Seperate tip cleaners, flux, & both leaded & lead free solder.
      Drewline

      When was the last time you did something for the first time?

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      • #18
        Drewline,

        Thanks for the info. Didn't know that. Figures it would be pretty much incompatible.

        Used a solder sucker for removal.
        Wasn't much if any lead-free left. Pads looked real clean.
        Surprised me. Was expecting it to be a pain.
        Probably the easiest solder removal I have ever done.
        Pads cleaned right up.
        The new joints look pretty good.
        Kept the iron very clean for each pad. I generally use more solder on a repair tinning and bridging
        while desoldering than I do actually soldering in parts.

        Of course there is fusion of the solder and metals to be soldered...
        Might get a small amount of lead free, flux and a separate tip for the WTCP for the non-good stuff.

        Really would like to avoid lead-free.
        All that I build for myself is built using the 100+ octane good stuff like I used to put in the old '66 Charger back in the day...
        a sign on the desk of Suzanne Schroeder, collector of bureaucratic gobbledygook, AP wire story, Sarasota Herald-Tribune, July 3, 1973
        “I know that you believe you understand what you think I said, but I’m not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.”

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