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Old Gretsch Amp - need schematic and advise

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  • Old Gretsch Amp - need schematic and advise

    Hi. I'm trying to fix this amp for a friend. I can't find a schematic or model number. All I know is it's a Gretsch Electromatic Standard amp. Can't make out all the tubes, but I see it has a 6SC7, 6J5, 6V6, and the rectifier tube looks like a 5Y3. There's a cap unconnected. It's the yellow.02uf - 600v with the other end connected to the chassis. Is this the death cap? Where does the loose end connect to? ThanksClick image for larger version

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  • #2
    Couldn't find a schemo on a quick search through my stuff. If the cap was a death cap, it would have gone to one side of the AC line. It looks like it was clipped-not unsoldered. Can you see the rest of the lead on one of the lugs where the input AC goes (fuse holder maybe)? My guess is that you are correct about it being a death cap, but hard to be sure.

    I'm curious. I don't see an OT. Is it mounted to the speaker or something?
    "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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    • #3
      If you can't find a schem or layout for this amp, compare to amps of similar ilk (early tweed fenders for example) and sketch it out. With only a handful of components, you'll easily identify the function of the tubes that the wires run to (preamp, recto, etc) and then use tube data sheets to determine if the tubes installed are correct or not. Seriously, every 6SC7 preamp out there will look similar enough for you to make your own schematic for this. You will get help here, but I'm recommending that you dig in and trace out the circuit. That's gotta be more educational than scouring the internet for docs that may not come to light.

      Check as many of the components as you can (trannys, resistors & pots) without power applied to eliminate nasty surprises. Does it power up? If your friend has never run it, you might try it without tubes first just to get a baseline on voltages and the health of the PT.

      All the paper-in-oil caps you may want to replace as a precaution.

      The 0.02 cap probably is the death cap. Do you know who changed out the power cord? They might know for sure where it was connected. Regardless, the death cap must go. And be sure to add a PE (ground) wire and a three-prong plug when you rebuild this.
      If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken. - Steve Conner
      If the thing works, stop fixing it. - Enzo
      We need more chaos in music, in art... I'm here to make it. - Justin Thomas
      MANY things in human experience can be easily differentiated, yet *impossible* to express as a measurement. - Juan Fahey

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      • #4
        The clipped end of that cap probably went straight to the fuse holder, so yes that would have been the "death cap".
        Now one side of the AC is going to power switch then to PT, other side of AC is going to fuse holder then other PT primary lead.
        Fuse holder and power switch should both go on hot side of 3 prong ac cord, neutral straight to PT primary, ground to chassis.
        Originally posted by Enzo
        I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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        • #5
          Yep, that's the death cap. I replaced all caps under chassis and got it working. Thanks guys for your help. Now if I can find a schematic for a KMD XV100SD tube amp, I can maybe solve its FX loop problem.

          I've started that search in Schematic Requests. No luck yet. Lol. Fingers crossed

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