Ampeg BA 210 combo bass amp help please

[Big_Mike]

Hello all, I'm new here and I'm having trouble with my Ampeg BA210 combo bass amp.

When I turn it on the red light next to the power switch lights up but then fades out and the amp doesn't power up… but if I try it ten or twenty times it eventually will power on and work like new. Any experienced amp tech types here have any ideas what could be going on? I really hate the idea of shipping this thing off for half a year to be repaired if it's something I could possibly take care of myself (slim chance I know) Thanks for any knowledge or help you might be able to offer.

[52 Bill]

Welcome to the place.

When I turn it on the red light next to the power switch lights up but then fades out and the amp doesn't power up… but if I try it ten or twenty times it eventually will power on and work like new.

If you turn it on and give the amp a good whack with your fist, can you make the amp power on or off with the mechanical vibration from the hit?

There might be something loose in the power supply that is causing your problem. What sort of skill set do you have regarding electronics and stuff like soldering? Do you have a friend that can help you?

[Sowhat]

I thought for a moment that you were describing a failure mode of a SMPS (Switch Mode Power Supply) but I quickly realized that this amp has a regular old linear supply. SMPS's will screw with you like this as the filter caps loose their low ESR from age and heat until they never fire up.

With a linear supply I would think as 52 Bill does... it's got to be a flakey connection somewhere in the power supply.

[Big_Mike]

Welcome to the place.
If you turn it on and give the amp a good whack with your fist, can you make the amp power on or off with the mechanical vibration from the hit?

Wow, quick responses! Thanks guys!

I just turned it off and back on, light went out… I gave it a good couple of whacks like suggested and it came on. Tried it again just to make sure it wasn't a fluke and sure enough it came on again.

This seems like good news but I am pretty green when it comes to this stuff. I have some soldering experience, not a lot, just the most basic re-attaching of wires in cheap radios and stuff but never attempted to open up a $700 amp before.

I'm not afraid to try though, any resources you suggest before I attempt or would you recommend I take it somewhere.

Thanks again for the help, truly appreciated.

[g1]

Do you have a multi-meter that you can do continuity checks with?
Does it have a removeable AC cord? If so, check whether wiggling it in the amp is causing the issue.

[drewl]

Start simple.
Check the cord, follow the wires from the power cord and see what they are connected to.
See if the fuse is loose.

All with unit unplugged of course.

[Big_Mike]

Thanks guys,

No multi-meter. I opened it up and checked all the obvious connections and the fuse, all seemed sufficiently tight, nothing obviously loose or out of place. I put it back together hoping maybe I pushed in a connection tighter while checking it out but the issue persists ... A few good whacks and it behaves. I might need someone else to take a look but I don't know anyone who knows this stuff.

Any other things I could try that a newb like me could attempt?

Thanks for the help, you guys are awesome.

Maybe I could find someone on craigslist to look at it.

[52 Bill]

A few good whacks and it behaves. I might need someone else to take a look but I don't know anyone who knows this stuff.

If you don't feel safe in working on it, then you should definitely refer to someone qualified.

At least you already know that the problem is mechanical in nature, so the repair should not be that difficult or expensive.

Where in the world are you located. There may be someone here that can help you out.

[Big_Mike]

Thanks, I'm in Virginia, near Charlottesville, Lake Palmyra to be exact.

I'll give it another go here after dinner, set up some lights and open it up again and do a more thorough exam before I throw in the towel and involve someone else.

[g1]

It looks like the power LED runs off the +16V supply, so it could be any bad connection between the AC plug and the +16V line.

[Big_Mike]

SWEET!

(edit) as soon as I posted this I tried to power it on again… no luck, back to the drawing board UGH!

Wow, as of now it works. I just went ahead and checked every wire and pulled them off the circuit board where possible and re-connected and made sure everything was pushed in tight. As soon as it was put back together I turned it on and off about 5 times, each time it kicks on so I guess I must'v re-sat a loose wire connector.

Thanks for all the tips EVERYONE! I never would'v even thought to whack the amp like that. Saved me time, money, and aggravation

…time to plug in my bass and shake the cul de sac

[Enzo]

Next time you have to turn it on ten times, once it runs, LEAVE THE SWITCH ON, and unplug it from the wall. Now plug it back in. Did it come back on? You could simply have a failing switch.


And speaking as someone who made his living the last 30 years doing repairs to music equipment, I have to say most of us do not take half a year to repair a simple power problem.

[Big_Mike]

Holy crap, you're a genius! That's it... turns back on when I plug it back in.

Now I just need to find out where to buy a replacement that fits. This is great news and I'm learning stuff too! Can you suggest any favorite places to order from? Thanks for helping solve this, so glad it's just the switch, my lucky day!

And to clarify, the last time I had trouble with this amp it was under warranty. My effects stopped working and I took it to an authorized repair place that ordered a replacement part that took forever, then once it finally arrived and was installed something else went bad and the had to order that.. rinse and repeat... all n all it took 6 months to solve, hence my reluctance to do it again.

[Enzo]

yes, shit happens, but not all the time.

Ampeg and Crate use the same parts supply, and it is a very common switch for them. One easy source is a local repair shop that services this tuff, ask if they have a Crate/Ampeg small rocker switch to match.

Mouser or Digigkey or someone would have them, I'd wager. I remove the switch, and measure the panel hole it mounts in. That is the dimension you need to match in the market. I am not at my shop so I cannot measure one for you. Also it is probably just SPST, but could be DPST, so consider that. Also, some switches are illuminated, I don't recall if this one is, but if you don't care if the switch lights up, then ignore that.

When you see a listing for a switch that looks like it might be one for you, then download the data sheet for it. That will have all the dimensions.

[Leo_Gnardo]

Holy crap, you're a genius!

No, you're the genius for following through on good suggestions. Lots of stores & service centers would think nothing of taking $200 from you for this kind of repair. (Plus your time & gas hauling your gear there and back.) On the bill: "Had to rewire the primary", woof, sounds like a lot of work, when what they mean is swap in a new buck-and-a-quarter switch or clip off a dodgy quick-connect & solder its wire directly to the board.