What do you use for screening foil

[mikeydee77]

I need to replace some damaged foil in a Fender Hot Rod Deluxe. It's quite common for it to come away on the side panels.

What is a good replacement? I was thinking about using some insulating foil tape which is aluminium - any better ideas?

[Leo_Gnardo]

Never found that missing foil on these was a problem, it doesn't seem to do much. If you must replace it, aluminum sticky tape you mentioned is probably the best solution.

It really needs to be attached electrically to the chassis for it to work as a noise insulator, what boffins might call a Faraday Cage. Since it's not well attached, or not at all in some cases, might as well not be there.

[Enzo]

If some of it gets snagged by the chassis and torn, I ignore it. A few gaps in the foil is not going to substantially change the noise levels.

[Jazz P Bass]

I use aluminized duct tape.

[nickb]

I need to replace some damaged foil in a Fender Hot Rod Deluxe. It's quite common for it to come away on the side panels.

What is a good replacement? I was thinking about using some insulating foil tape which is aluminium - any better ideas?

These guys have a good selection of widths.

[xtian]

Never found that missing foil on these was a problem, it doesn't seem to do much.

I NEVER disagree with Leo. So I'm not disagreeing. Just pointing out that the chassis cover on the Hot Rod series and Blues Jr amps does magical things. Have had a couple of amps that oscillated badly until the cover was attached.

[Enzo]

I agree the chassis cover likes to be shielded, but the OP was about the sides of the cab at the ends of the chassis. Not really near the high gain circuits.

[mikeydee77]

Usually I see a little bit of wear and tear (just on the sides) due to chassis removal as its a tight fit. As Enzo mentions it's probably not that much benefit improving it there is just a little gap. However the one I was working on the foil has really come apart big time and there were little bits sitting around in the chassis - so I figured I would like to restore it fully.

I took a look through a Fender Blues Deluxe parts list and found this reference. TAPE ALUMINUM 7” X 60 TDS (I think TDS is an technical data sheet).

Coincidentally, I had recently come across a line 6 valve spider which has an input jack socket and tiny PCB built into a small metal case fixed onto the front panel (faraday cage within a faraday cage). This amp is quite noiseless and because of the contrast between the two amps started making me thinking about the importance of screening.

I will give the foil tape a go . . .

[Leo_Gnardo]

I NEVER disagree with Leo. So I'm not disagreeing. Just pointing out that the chassis cover on the Hot Rod series and Blues Jr amps does magical things. Have had a couple of amps that oscillated badly until the cover was attached.

"Covered" that in paragraph 2, perhaps I wasn't clear & thorough enough. On re read, yes I failed to mention cover, D'OH!. Enzo and you clarified the matter, and it's twoo, it's twoo!

[QUOTE: Leo_Gnardo] It really needs to be attached electrically to the chassis for it to work as a noise insulator, what boffins might call a Faraday Cage. Since it's not well attached, or not at all in some cases, might as well not be there.[/QUOTE]

Whether sides or back, no electrical attachment means no shielding. For back covers I'll put a short screw and solder lug thru aluminum or steel shielding metal on the cover, and a length of skinny wire from solder lug to a grounded spot on the chassis. If there's copper shield on the back cover I may solder the wire to that. Can't really count on the metal actually making contact with the chassis when it's assembled. The wire makes sure it is. For the boffins, now the chassis + cover make a gaussian surface or Faraday cage. The idea is, what's inside a conductive container isn't affected by electromagnetic fields outside the container, and verse visa. And as you mentioned xtian, having the metal shielding complete can settle down fields within the container/chassis and quench unwanted hi frequency feedback that results in ultrasonic & RF oscillations. Hum too. I keep a piece of hobby-store brass sheet ready to hand, about 5 x 10 inches, to temporarily cover the open side of amps I'm working on if they act squirrely on the bench. Sometimes the shielding helps, sometimes not. But at least I know there's a good chance any noises will settle down when the shielded/grounded back cover is put back into place.

I hope that "covers" it!

[mikeydee77]

I keep a piece of hobby-store brass sheet ready to hand, about 5 x 10 inches, to temporarily cover the open side of amps I'm working on if they act squirrely on the bench.

Great tip

[Enzo]

Mikey, I suspect the tape is a typo, and it was meant to be 7" x 60 YDS. Note the "AR" in the quantity column, for "as required". I think you get a 60 yard roll of the stuff if you order that part number. They peel off whatever they need from the roll to install in the amp cab.

[mikeydee77]

Mikey, I suspect the tape is a typo, and it was meant to be 7" x 60 YDS. Note the "AR" in the quantity column, for "as required". I think you get a 60 yard roll of the stuff if you order that part number. They peel off whatever they need from the roll to install in the amp cab.

I think you could be right there.

[TimmyP1955]

Coincidentally, I had recently come across a line 6 valve spider which has an input jack socket and tiny PCB built into a small metal case fixed onto the front panel (faraday cage within a faraday cage). This amp is quite noiseless and because of the contrast between the two amps started making me thinking about the importance of screening.

It could be that the extra shielding is to keep digital noise from getting out.

[Tone Meister]

Do you guys pull the entire chassis when working on these amps?

[52 Bill]

Do you guys pull the entire chassis when working on these amps?

Are you talking about a Hot Rod Deluxe? If so, then no about the only time you need to remove the chassis is if you need to replace a transformer.