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What do you use for screening foil

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  • #16
    Not unless I have baffle hardware at the top of the cabinet that's loose, and I can't get at it...or to get the speakers out. For sure if it's Hot Rod DeVille 410, and upper speakers are blown. As to the replacement foil..I have a roll of aluminum flashing that I bought to deal with continual torn-up adhesive-backed foil on the inside of the cabinet top. Last resort...do my best to unroll what the beveled front panel did while attempting to extract chassis. Hot Rod series can do similar damage. Sometimes I've had to use bar clamps in reverse to spread the cabinet apart a bit, so the chassis doesn't rip it up further
    Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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    • #17
      Ahh, got it. I recently replaced a PT in a Hot Rod Deluxe and was able to slip the old one out and the new one in with no trouble. I reckon an OT in a HR Deluxe would be more challenging as would the HR Deville in those situations Nevetslab mentioned.

      I've learned how to quickly get around inside these amps without breaking anything, but after reading some of the earlier posts I was just wondering if there was an easier way.

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      • #18
        Well, here is a tip, might be useful. When I have to remove a chassis like the HR DeVille, rather than fight gravity, I first remove any side screws, then I turn the amp on its side to remove the top screws. That way the chassis just sits there on its end in the cab, it won't fall down onto the magnet or try to drop to the floor.
        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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        • #19
          And another thought. a lot of Fender solid states have what I call a wedge chassis. it is sheet metal with a short front panel for the controls, and the rear panel is maybe 8" tall. So the thing is wedge shaped front to back, with the bottom surface sloping up to the front. They often have a side tab bent up on the chassis with a threaded insert. But this pertains to many chassis. The mounting screw gets tightened up, and it pulls that metal tab outwards into the cabinet wood. other threaded chassis can get their edges distorted similarly. This of course tends to catch on the cab sides and tear the foil, or catch on the tolex. Marshall combos seem to like to catch the tolex a lot.

          Once you finally get the chassis out, I tap those bent tabs and surfaces back down with my mallet. That allows me to slide the chassis back in without catching anything. yes, tightening the screws down tight will pull them back out like they were, but at least we could slide it in easily.
          Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Enzo View Post
            ...The mounting screw gets tightened up, and it pulls that metal tab outwards into the cabinet wood. other threaded chassis can get their edges distorted similarly. This of course tends to catch on the cab sides and tear the foil, or catch on the tolex. Marshall combos seem to like to catch the tolex a lot.

            Once you finally get the chassis out, I tap those bent tabs and surfaces back down with my mallet. That allows me to slide the chassis back in without catching anything. yes, tightening the screws down tight will pull them back out like they were, but at least we could slide it in easily.
            A tip on how to deal with a bent tab that is interfering with removal of the chassis is to back out the mounting screws as far as you can before they completely disengage from the nut threads. Then tap on the screw head with a mallet to bend the tabs inward a little before completely removing the screws and pulling out the chassis. Sometimes it helps to temporarily install longer screws to allow sufficient bending of the mounting tabs. With longer screws you can also use a wood workers clamp to squeeze the mounting screw heads. This gives better control than using a mallet. CAUTION: This technique is only "safe" if one has a good understanding of the guts and can visualize what is happening inside the amp chassis. Misinterpretation, overly aggressive mallet work, excessive clamp squeezing or over insertion of longer screws could damage the amp.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by nevetslab View Post
              Sometimes I've had to use bar clamps in reverse to spread the cabinet apart a bit, so the chassis doesn't rip it up further
              Great tip!

              Steve A.
              The Blue Guitar
              www.blueguitar.org
              Some recordings:
              https://soundcloud.com/sssteeve/sets...e-blue-guitar/
              .

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