I use F&T for filter caps. I'm not convinced cathode bypass or bias caps make that much of a difference, but currently I use Spragues if they come in the value I need, or whatever I can find for the odd Marshall values. I only have one customer who insists on the big blue Spragues.
There was a rumor afloat, couple years back, that the "Holy Grail" caps we find in Ceria amps are custom labeled for Ceria by Vishay's (Vishay acquired/bought Sprague some years back) Indonesia factory. Some folks reckon the HG's are premium, perhaps also that's what Vishay's putting inside their Blue Spragoo Atoms. Who's to know?
Hi everyone, I'm new here, was tipped off about this fine forum by Enzo.
I clicked on this thread, correctly assuming what i'd find within I have also sent Atom packing due to the price (although my customers ultimately make this decision).
What is the general consensus about Illinois electrolytic caps?
Ta MnO2 and polymer Ta will not tolerate more that 2-5% reverse voltage before they fail. MnO2 is used as the electrolyte and when the capacitor fails you will see them ignite and burn (lots of oxygen from MnO2) - exothermic so the failed capacitor doesn't need an O2 source to burn. Why do I know this?
Hi everyone, I'm new here, was tipped off about this fine forum by Enzo.
I clicked on this thread, correctly assuming what i'd find within I have also sent Atom packing due to the price (although my customers ultimately make this decision).
What is the general consensus about Illinois electrolytic caps?
I'm not sure if I represent a consensus but Illinois are cheap mid line caps that, of course, Peavey uses very widely. I'd never use them as a first choice but have replaced a ton of them... much better tech out there for a few pennies more IMHO
What is the general consensus about Illinois electrolytic caps?
Illinois, not bad but a lot of techs consider them déclassé. Some report having to replace Illie's gone bad in Fender Hot Rod/Blues series amps. So far I haven't seen that myself & I work on a lot of those "new" (now up to 25 y/o) Fenders. I guess they're sorta the "Pabst Blue Ribbon" of electrolytics, functional but not fancy nor expensive.
Ta MnO2 and polymer Ta will not tolerate more that 2-5% reverse voltage before they fail. MnO2 is used as the electrolyte and when the capacitor fails you will see them ignite and burn (lots of oxygen from MnO2) - exothermic so the failed capacitor doesn't need an O2 source to burn. Why do I know this?
Which shouldn't be a problem in a preamp cathode bypass application since there's usually about 2V on the circuit. I haven't noticed any tonal or performance related difference. What I do notice is that when I go into my parts drawers for a 22uf cap, there are a bunch of 22uf/25v electrolytics that I know are over ten years old (should probably throw them out) and a few 22uf/10V tants that I know are still fine.
I know many guys just straight up don't like them. I was originally intrigued because they offer a longer life alternative. If there's a good reason to not use them I'd be open to hear it.
"Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
It seems that the most common availability for me (Tube Store, CE) is Atom, Illinois and F&T.
I don't order from Mouser too often, so Xichon wouldn't be convenient.
I think I'd stick with F&T as my go-to brand for now.
Thanks for the input!
I don't order from Mouser too often, so Xichon wouldn't be convenient. I think I'd stick with F&T as my go-to brand for now.
If I'm not mistook, Mouser has discontinued the Xicon cap line, so whatever they have left in stock is what they have on offer. But Mouser does carry Nichicon & Vishay in case you ever have the urge to shop there. And you won't go wrong with F&T.
Ta does offer lower leakage and better ESR than Al but costs more, burns like a flare, when they fail, and Ta MnO2 doesn't like any reverse voltage. Ta also falls under the "conflict" metal category of materials and has been hard to get and even more $$$ when demand is high.
Good reasons. I've never actually seen a tant burn up. I've only smelled the aftermath. And then it was somewhat removed from the incident since these were repairs (to things I didn't build ). I did mention that I "have used" tantalums. My more common MO anymore is to just order fresh caps for each build and use Al throughout. I'll probably use a couple of my leftovers for a revoice I'm doing for a friend right now though. Only because I have everything I need on hand otherwise. I just might take one of those tants I have (outside!) and hit it with reverse voltage and report
"Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
My experience is with "wet" slug Ta and surfacemount packaged parts. The wet slug Ta is a very low leakage technology still used in some applications for energy storage (military of course). The electrolyte is sulfuric acid with a Ta2O5 "slug" in a coin silver case ($$$$). Unfortunately, I have seen these fail from accidental reverse voltage and they spray hot acid everywhere. I have also seen many Ta MnO2 surfacemount caps mysteriously fail - even with massive voltage derating and no chance of reverse bias? The other issue with Ta capacitors is they do not tolerate large changes in temperature (>3C/sec) so you cannot hand solder surfacemount Ta capacitors unless you have amazingly good soldering skill. Sorry for the long post I get carried away.
Nice ad! And I wasn't out to diss any PBR fans, hell I've had my share backstage at the Whizconsin State Fair Harley-Davidson/PBR stage. What it is, cheap & functional, excellent for a cooloff after mowing the lawn. Or wrenching the HD I s'pose. Boilin' up some hot dogs, makin' chili or quaffing with a bowl of that chili. Its charm is that it's not fancy. Save your money for Harley parts.
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