Oh man!! I just assumed you knew not to attach the speaker until you had the amp working. Honestly do not power this thing up at this point until you have thoroughly removed any faulty components and reinstalled new ones. For example, if you remove Q15 then go measure resistance on Q12's (and the other's) pins to see what has changed. The best way is to pull the part and really test it to see if it has been damaged.
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oK, tested tonight, speaker un -plugged .
resistance measurements in and out of the pcb . " IN PCB" was taken with all parts in the board.
Q12
IN PCB
B -C 2.4 OHM
B - E 2.2 OHM
C - E 0.2 OHM
Q12
OUT OF PCB
B-C 1K
B-E 3 OHM
C-E 1K
Q15
IN PCB
B-C OPEN
B-E 98 OHM
C-E 0 OHM
Q15
OUT OF PCB
B-C 700K
B-E 900K
C-E 1.5MEG
Q13
IN PCB
B-C 700K
B-E 6M
C-E 7M
Q13
OUT OF PCB
B-C 12M
B-E OPEN
C-E OPEN
Q14
IN PCB
B-C 0.3 OHM
B-E 98 OHM
C-E 98 OHM
Q14
OUT OF PCB
B-C 0.3 OHM
B-E OPEN
C-E OPEN
other-- the banded end of D12 and D13 are going right to ground. But test ok out of circuit---resistance and diode test.
looks like Q12 is bad ?? after all , its connected right to r18 which burned...
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Yes, it would appear Q12 is shorted B-E. It also looks like Q14 is shorted B-C. You should check them all via diode check with proper polarity to verify none are open and junctions are good.
Edit: I don't know your abilities or experience, so this is not meant to be condescending, but instead a tip:
If you're not familiar with how to test a transistor using diode check on a DVM, scroll about half way down this page. There is an explanation on how to do it.
http://www.elexp.com/electrical_meas...ts_part_3.aspxLast edited by The Dude; 06-09-2016, 05:10 AM."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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And the guy from the USA got them where? (hint: China)
If you have the original failed part, pop it open.
Then pop open a 'new' failed one.
10 to 1 you will see a drastic (ie: inferior) difference.
Maybe not.
http://sound.westhost.com/fake/counterfeit-p2.htm
Start over & take voltage measurements with the limiter.
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