is anybody really that retarded?
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"Stand back, I'm holding a calculator." - chinrest
"I happen to have an original 1955 Stratocaster! The neck and body have been replaced with top quality Warmoth parts, I upgraded the hardware and put in custom, hand wound pickups. It's fabulous. There's nothing like that vintage tone or owning an original." - Chuck H
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Originally posted by bob p View Postis anybody really that retarded?
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I should look into that...I have a JJ 6V6 that is "easy" to insert into the socket wrong, and "easier" to insert right...
Justin"Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
"Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
"All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -
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I put a 4mv 1KHz sine wave into J1 and here are the voltages I am getting: schematic volts in (). V1 pin 1 237V (196mv); pin 3 2V (1.93V); pin 7 0V (15.5mv); pin 6 243V (324mv). I really don't understand these high voltages. I may be chasing ghosts here. Any thoughts?
Cheers
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I hate to beat a dead horse, but I like to start off by looking at a complete voltage table because it makes it easier to see the big picture."Stand back, I'm holding a calculator." - chinrest
"I happen to have an original 1955 Stratocaster! The neck and body have been replaced with top quality Warmoth parts, I upgraded the hardware and put in custom, hand wound pickups. It's fabulous. There's nothing like that vintage tone or owning an original." - Chuck H
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Originally posted by TwinBeech View PostI really don't understand these high voltages. I may be chasing ghosts here. Any thoughts?
Voltages shown in ovals are AC, voltages shown in boxes are DC.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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To go along with what g1 said, those AC voltages indicated occur only when the amp is under test conditions indicated on the schematic. That is, they are not static AC voltages that exist when the amp is idling and will differ under any test conditions other than those indicated on the schematic. Anything different can alter the voltages indicated. Since you don't have a dummy load there is already a small difference in the test parameters. Just a small one though. Knob settings, etc. are given on the schem and should be used as such. And I see you've already noted and used the input signal correctly.
But just for giggles... As I mentioned, if you indicate the DC voltages on all the tube pins with the amp at idle we, here, can interpret them in the context of the circuit."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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While tracking down the noise ( popping, crackling) I hooked up another amp at the pre amp out and NO noise at the new amp spkr. At V3 I grounded through a cap pins 2 and 7, NO change. Still noisy. Then I grounded pin 5 on V4 and still noisy. Then I grounded pin 5 on V5 and almost all the noise is gone. All the popping and crackling just some low freq occasional static. I changed C26, C27, and C30. Still noisy.Can the resistors cause this kind of noise? I spray them and move them but no reaction. Any thoughts?
Cheers
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Originally posted by TwinBeech View PostI just tried that hookup and nothing changed. Still lots of static. I can still ground pin 5 of V5 and cancel most of the static. Just some low freq noise occasionally.
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