Got a Mackie powered speaker that I wanna gut and convert to passive. Curious on how y'all go about installing crossovers and if you make em from parts or just buy one of the many assembled options on sites like Partsexpress.com. I can go either way....but like advice from folks with experience. Love to learn from others who know the most efficient approach!
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Originally posted by lowell View PostGot a Mackie powered speaker that I wanna gut and convert to passive. Curious on how y'all go about installing crossovers and if you make em from parts or just buy one of the many assembled options on sites like Partsexpress.com. I can go either way....but like advice from folks with experience. Love to learn from others who know the most efficient approach!
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Originally posted by olddawg View PostA lot depends on the application.
Unless the listening room has been tuned and is flat across the spectrum, limiting the LF into the tweeters is probably good enough. Find the value of cap that prevents too much LF into the tweeter, and also doesn't create a noticeable notch in the response.
edit: how much engineering do you want to put into it? - or - how much money?If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken. - Steve Conner
If the thing works, stop fixing it. - Enzo
We need more chaos in music, in art... I'm here to make it. - Justin Thomas
MANY things in human experience can be easily differentiated, yet *impossible* to express as a measurement. - Juan Fahey
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how much engineering do you want to put into it? - or - how much money?
Woofers are basically low-pass filters in themselves. And depending on the speaker, the roll off is more or less. So I'll let the woofer handle that. And yes a simple series cap to the tweeter makes sense too....except I'm thinking the wattage of the tweeter will need to be compensated for somewhat. I'll see what the RMS wattage to the tweeter is after the cap is installed and report back.
See I was initially thinking inductors and caps... and bulb limiters. But this is more simplified and will probably be sufficient. Exactly why I posted. I think I will however add the bulb limiter.
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Parts Express has lots of available crossovers if you care to look through them.
https://www.parts-express.com/"I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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+1 on Parts Express. They're not exactly a budget saver, but they have the stuff, and a lot of it that you can't easily find elsewhere. As mentioned, unless you're tuning to some very specific requirement, keep it simple. I don't know (but always wondered) what the downside is to running frequencies into a woofer that are above it's ideal response. Amplifier efficiency? Any damage potential? Sans either you can just go with the capacitor to the tweeter as mentioned. If you find you WANT to use a full crossover, buy a ready made one within the parameters you need. Building your own from parts would probably be more expensive in the end."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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Originally posted by Chuck H View PostI don't know (but always wondered) what the downside is to running frequencies into a woofer that are above it's ideal response. Amplifier efficiency? Any damage potential?
Yep, Bill Fitzmaurice confirms my suspicions here: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/hig...owpass.362964/
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Originally posted by lowell View PostSo I'll see what the RMS wattage to the tweeter is after the cap is installed and report back.If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken. - Steve Conner
If the thing works, stop fixing it. - Enzo
We need more chaos in music, in art... I'm here to make it. - Justin Thomas
MANY things in human experience can be easily differentiated, yet *impossible* to express as a measurement. - Juan Fahey
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P_arts Express sells made up crossovers, but they also sell bare circuit boards for crossovers, just install your own coils and caps for the frequency points you desire. They have charts to help you select values. They have a variety, two way, three way, subwoofer, etc.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Erse audio sells there own stuff (also sold at PE) and their calculators work well too
Premium grade audio components including crossover inductors, audio capacitors, electronic assemblies | ERSE Audio
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And several web sources that have Crossover Calculators. If you are going with a simple first order, you can use this one... AJ Designer Calculator.It's not just an amp, it's an adventure!
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I use a lot of on line CAD and calculators. In fact, I'm impaired enough WRT some of the math and theory behind electronic design that I RELY on them Fortunately for me I haven't been thwarted in my efforts by any particular websites going belly up yet. And I often gain a little knowledge in my weak areas whenever I use a program. Since I've only ever done electronics as an avocation (albeit with occasional fits of obsession) I expect to continue learning and having fun with this to the end"Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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I've often thought about the separation of LF and HF. Apart from phase interference, I wonder if there's a possibility of a dedicated LF driver being damaged by excess HF not being dissipated as sound energy, but being turned into heat due to the inertia of the cone and voice-coil assembly (plus suspension elements)? This would depend on the program material.
Also, in a simple series-cap filter to route the HF to the horn, there must be some absorption of the HF spectrum if that part of the signal 'sees' the LF driver.
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I have experimented with passive crossovers and found that a low pass filter on the woofer makes the high frequencies sound clearer. You can hear it right away as you move the woofer lead from the crossover input to the LF output.
The simple series capacitor on the tweeter will limit the amount of power the tweeter will handle. For a speaker system that plays LOUD, you will need a better crossover to protect the tweeter from burnout.WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !
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