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Fender 400 PS bias

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  • #16
    Now the voltages have changed> interesting how this thing reacts:

    V8 - 14vdc
    V9 - 14vdc
    V10 - .2vdc
    V11 - .2vdc
    V12 - 14vdc
    V13 - 14vdc

    something is wrong on the inside pair, V10 and V11
    Not sure what. Got to check around some more and maybe try moving tubes around or try new ones.
    Last edited by pontiacpete; 08-12-2016, 06:39 PM.

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    • #17
      The cathodes for each set will only be connected when the load is attached for that set.
      If the line draw does not increase by the appropriate amount for each set connected, adjust the bias.
      The reason your draw did not increase from 1.5 to 2.1A when you connected the first load was because the bias had been set according to a voltage that was not really appropriate for these tubes.
      Once the proper bias level is set, you adjust the balance pot for minimum draw (without touching the bias pot again).
      Originally posted by Enzo
      I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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      • #18
        Thanks G1. Starting to see how this works.

        with all jacks connected to their 4R loads, voltages are alot closer.

        V8 .002
        V9 .065
        V10 .228
        V11 .228
        V12 .308
        V13 .464

        How does this look?

        And the current draw is at 2.26A

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        • #19
          Today I am trying to match the output tubes working with the tubes I have been given.
          Found that V8 wasn't conducting at all and finding some very weak.
          This is what I have now with a full load on all outputs and the primary current at 3.03A
          In their respective pairs
          V8 .48vdc (48mA) and V13 .49vdc
          V9 .42vdc and V12 .32vdc
          V10 .19vdc and V11 .30vdc

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          • #20
            I tried adjusting the bias voltage to bring up the primary current draw to 3.2A, managed to get it up to 3.16A
            and the voltages are
            V8 54v V13 54v
            V9 46v V12 35v
            V10 22v V11 33v

            I think this is best I can do with the 6550a's that were given to me

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            • #21
              Check that the cathode switching contacts are open when nothing is plugged in to the output jack(s), and closed when something is plugged in.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by pontiacpete View Post
                I tried adjusting the bias voltage to bring up the primary current draw to 3.2A, managed to get it up to 3.16A
                and the voltages are
                V8 54v V13 54v
                V9 46v V12 35v
                V10 22v V11 33v


                I think this is best I can do with the 6550a's that were given to me
                I'm assuming this is measuring at the cathode and you forgot the decimal place?
                You can shuffle the tubes around and if the readings stay with the particular tubes, then I agree, that's the best you can do with these tubes. If the readings stay with the particular sockets, then look for something in the circuit.
                Originally posted by Enzo
                I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                • #23
                  Originally posted by g1 View Post
                  I'm assuming this is measuring at the cathode and you forgot the decimal place?
                  not again

                  yes there should be a decimal place, or the 'v' should have been 'mA'.

                  Took off the AC ammeter and the voltages at the cathodes were different today.
                  Anyway I wrapped it up with each set pulling between 30mA and 45mA.
                  They were within 5-10mA at the most per pair. Not the most matched pair. It sounds good.
                  Thanks for the input.

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