The slightly-microphonic EF86 tube has been tamed!
I ended up using just two of the tiny o-rings and not four (one on top and one underneath each of the two mounting tabs) because it was too difficult to get the tiny o-rings to fit with the big o-ring in the way.
The aluminum shield base is not screwed down tightly. It can be tilted about 10 degrees. The ceramic socket itself does not tilt much, since it is sitting on the flat o-ring underneath it. The o-rings are not compressed much--I tightened the screws down just enough to make all the mating surfaces touch. The nylon insert locking nuts make this possible.
With this setup, I can continue to use my brand-new $30 Tung Sol gold pin EF806S until its guts eventually vibrate loose and it becomes audibly microphonic even with the shock mount.
Oh, one thing I found out is that it is definitely better to buy the next size down of tiny o-rings (McMaster Carr SKU 1182N005 (3/32in I.D., 7/32in O.D.)). These 1182N006 (1/8in I.D., 1/4in O.D.) o-rings can shift around under the screw head as it is tightened. I had to push the o-ring into place to center it under the screw.
The three layers of heat shrink do help with the microphonics; I will leave them there for now in spite of them trapping heat. Eventually they will be replaced with the $5/pair large silicone o-rings sold as tube dampers or the $29 Herbie's Audio Lab Ultrasonic Guitar tube dampers, both of which will expose more glass to the air for cooling.
Another alternative I saw somewhere recommended by an amp builder is to cut the heat shrink tubing into 1/4" rings and put those at the top and bottom of the tube--same idea as with the large silicone o-rings but it would allow the tube shield to be installed.
(I do not actually know if the Herbie's Ultrasonic Guitar tube dampers work or are worth the expense. Many people vouch for them, but how much do they reduce microphonics by? I can quantify what the heat shrink trick did based on how much more I could turn the volume up.)
THANK YOU TO EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP!
I ended up using just two of the tiny o-rings and not four (one on top and one underneath each of the two mounting tabs) because it was too difficult to get the tiny o-rings to fit with the big o-ring in the way.
The aluminum shield base is not screwed down tightly. It can be tilted about 10 degrees. The ceramic socket itself does not tilt much, since it is sitting on the flat o-ring underneath it. The o-rings are not compressed much--I tightened the screws down just enough to make all the mating surfaces touch. The nylon insert locking nuts make this possible.
With this setup, I can continue to use my brand-new $30 Tung Sol gold pin EF806S until its guts eventually vibrate loose and it becomes audibly microphonic even with the shock mount.
Oh, one thing I found out is that it is definitely better to buy the next size down of tiny o-rings (McMaster Carr SKU 1182N005 (3/32in I.D., 7/32in O.D.)). These 1182N006 (1/8in I.D., 1/4in O.D.) o-rings can shift around under the screw head as it is tightened. I had to push the o-ring into place to center it under the screw.
The three layers of heat shrink do help with the microphonics; I will leave them there for now in spite of them trapping heat. Eventually they will be replaced with the $5/pair large silicone o-rings sold as tube dampers or the $29 Herbie's Audio Lab Ultrasonic Guitar tube dampers, both of which will expose more glass to the air for cooling.
Another alternative I saw somewhere recommended by an amp builder is to cut the heat shrink tubing into 1/4" rings and put those at the top and bottom of the tube--same idea as with the large silicone o-rings but it would allow the tube shield to be installed.
(I do not actually know if the Herbie's Ultrasonic Guitar tube dampers work or are worth the expense. Many people vouch for them, but how much do they reduce microphonics by? I can quantify what the heat shrink trick did based on how much more I could turn the volume up.)
THANK YOU TO EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP!
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