Hey guys, I've got a peavey classic 30 112 combo 1996. runs perfect no noise hum or anything else for about 30 minutes then all heaters shut off power and preamp power trans does not get hot. Removed board and touched up any funky looking older joints in heater circuit.was looking at mov and .01 caps in primary but when the heaters all go off at once the pilot light stays on Thanks in advance for any insight on this
Ad Widget
Collapse
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
peavey classic 30 problem
Collapse
X
-
Hi Breausonic , for me the biggest pain in those things..... are those little wire links that join the boards together.
That's my first "port of call" after removing the chassis !
This layout diagram from Black Magic amps is invaluable in the search !
http://bmamps.com/Schematics/Peavey/...c30_layout.jpg
EDIT : think the pilot light is a neon and runs from the mains power input (110v~240v).
The output tubes heaters (filaments) are all in series if one tube is removed they all go out .
They get their supply via R71 & R 72 white "largeish ..squarish" ceramic resistors!
The pre amp tubes are also in series with a dc supply 36v ! Wired as 12 volts tubes (pins 4 & 5) ..i.e. 3 x 12 =36
R 66 to pin 5 V3. V1 pin 4 grounded.Last edited by oc disorder; 11-27-2016, 10:18 PM.
-
When the heaters go out, see if you still have AC voltage at the heater winding right at the connectors (between orange leads going to J27 and J28).
Then check between J28 and the far side of F3 (C51 side).Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
Comment
-
I was wondering when it stops you have HT missing also ?
Inside the transformer here in Australia (230v version) there is a thermal fuse just under the plastic cover of the power transformer. Think I had to remove the transformer to carefully unclip the plastic cover. It's a non resetable one here.. maybe if yours has one it's intermittent?
Comment
-
I wouldn't just bypass it, except for testing purposes. If it is indeed the problem, get a new one and replace it. It's there for a reason and you don't want to start someone's house on fire.
Next, the thermal cutoff is on the primary. First, see if you loose all secondary voltages. If you loose only the filament AC, it's not the thermal cutoff."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
Comment
-
I just pulled off the top cover on the trans and right over the thermal fuse is a brown spot about an 1 1/2 long going from the thermal fuse down the side of the bobbin.Do you know what part id replace that with. I was just going to bypass it with some 24 bus wire with teflon shield.If it works iil buy you a caucasian. All secondary voltages drop out, pilot light stays on
Comment
-
If you pull out or expose the existing thermal cutoff, there should be a part number on it or some specs like (arbitrarily) 100 degree C 3A or something of the sort. If all secondary voltages drop out, that could very likely be the problem. You can certainly jumper it temporarily to see if it solves your problem. Again, I'm not fond of leaving it that way."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
Comment
-
Maybe so Enzo. Maybe not. He says it runs for a while, then he loses secondary output. It may just be breaking prematurely and check perfectly fine cold via meter. That said, I do agree that we need to make sure that the transformer isn't getting overly hot. I would temporarily bypass the cutoff, fire it up and monitor the transformer for excessive heat. Go from there. The thermal cutoff may be bad, or it may be doing exactly what it's supposed to do."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
Comment
-
Originally posted by Breausonic View Postright over the thermal fuse is a brown spot about an 1 1/2 long going from the thermal fuse down the side of the bobbin.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
Comment
Comment