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Peavey Mace VT Series - blowing fuses

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  • Peavey Mace VT Series - blowing fuses

    Peavey Mace VT series head, the one with 6 x 6L6GC for 160 watts RMS.

    Came in with several problems and didn't produce any sound, but the 6 amp main fuse was not blown. Kept amp on the LBL and first got the preamp working. Preamp now produces strong signal from PREAMP OUT on rear panel. Equally strong signal from the LINE OUT.

    Lots of hum and AC ripple, so moved to the power supply board and replaced the 100/350 main filters at C6, C7, C8, C9, also replaced the 1000/35 at C14 and C16 and the 10/160 at C11. Power supply seems stable. Found a couple loose pins on two of the molex connectors and tightened those.

    On the power tube board several of the 100/5W were open so I replaced them all at R29, R31, R33, R35, R37 and R38. Then with all the tubes installed, measured in the neighborhood of -40V bias at pin 5 of each power tube socket, give or take a couple volts on a couple sockets. All this with the amp still on the LBL.

    Cautiously played the amp while still on the LBL and get moderate outout from the power amp while keeping the volume control down. (160 watts RMS into a 70 watt speaker). Seemed pretty much normal for the volume I dialed in. Noticed when I dug in the power indicator lamp would dim and then go completely out until I quit playing.

    Noticed some low hum, so I tested all the old stock Sylvania 6L6GC tubes on tester for grid leakage and shorts and all tested fine with strong readings. Measured current draw at each power tube via bias probe and current draw at idle was quite low, definitely not too much at idle.

    Took the amp off the LBL and the fuse blew pretty quickly once I put a tone at the input and raised the volume to about 35-40 percent. Put amp back on LBL and with all tubes pulled, all six tube sockets have 499V at pin 3, 497V at pin 4, and -60V at pin 5.

    Added tubes back one at a time and predictably the voltages dropped accordingly. With all six power tubes in the bulb glows dim, definitely not bright, to be expected with six hungry 6L6GCs. Plate voltage is now 397V and the tubes are drawing ~7 mA of current. I've done nothing to rectify the blown fuse, so I won't take the amp off the LBL until we can sort that out.

    Any ideas what to check next? The replacement electrolytic capacitors are definitely oriented correctly.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Tone Meister; 03-07-2017, 05:08 PM. Reason: edit title

  • #2
    Temporarily unsolder one end of the both flyback diodes and see if it will then hold a fuse. I'm wondering if one or both of them is leaky.
    "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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    • #3
      Lifted one end of each of the flyback diodes. Both test good with a forward bias of about 2 volts. Put a tone into the input and the bulb still doesn't get fully bright, even with the volume near max - the amp is loaded with a dummy load.

      But it was the same before, the amp seemed to be normal at idle on the LBL. But as soon as I pulled it from the LBL the fuse popped pretty quickly with the amp under a moderate load.

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      • #4
        My next thought would be one of the tubes arcing under stress. Maybe try a couple tubes at a time and see if you can suss out a bad one. Tube testers don't always tell the whole story.
        "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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        • #5
          Yeah, that makes sense. I have the chassis out and have been watching for any strange goings on with the amp under load. Remember also that the plate voltage dropped to 397V with the amp at idle after the tubes were installed.

          I'm making a trip to Mojotone tomorrow morning, so it'll be afternoon before I can get back on it.

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          • #6
            Amp is stable right now and off the LBL, and the voltages are spot on with the schematic. With a guitar plugged into the input it seems to be producing full power. Have not measured actual power output.

            Found another loose pin on a Molex connector. Also spotted some arcing at the end of the tube board where someone had attempted to re-solder the brown B+ wire from the OT and made a mess of it - looks like that connection had blown a small hole in the board at some point. And finally, I tweaked every power tube socket and there were definitely several critical pins that were questionable.

            PHASE effect does not work. I can hear a volume drop as if the effect is engaged when the RATE control is switched on but the COLOR or RATE controls have no effect when rotated clockwise. Is the footswitch required to make the PHASE work, or should I start checking ICs?
            Last edited by Tone Meister; 03-07-2017, 04:29 PM.

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            • #7
              Headed to Mojotone and will check back in a few hours.

              Gonna leave the amp running while I'm gone ...

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              • #8
                Phasor, start checking the function of the circuit. Is signal arriving at the chain, is it leaving the chain? Is the control signal being generated? Is it reaching those OTAs? Is the TL604 working.
                Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                • #9
                  If I recall correctly, the switch on the rate control is meant to stop (or "park") the sweep, which is what you may be describing. If so, you will want to check that switch.
                  Originally posted by Enzo
                  I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Enzo View Post
                    Phasor, start checking the function of the circuit. Is signal arriving at the chain, is it leaving the chain? Is the control signal being generated? Is it reaching those OTAs? Is the TL604 working.
                    OK, amp is completely stable now and is running quietly and sounding pretty good. While I was out, I left it running for 5 hours with a 400 Hz tone into the input with the power amp outputting exactly 50 watts RMS (20 Vrms @ 8-ohms) and it was still running fine when I returned.

                    Enzo, I need to study the schematic closer before I can begin to suss the Phasor circuit and attempt to answer your questions. Some of what you're asking me is over my head, but I will be methodical in attempting to understand the signal flow there and try to start testing what needs testing.

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                    • #11
                      OK, I need some guidance to get the Phasor working. Amp is ready to go home otherwise.

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                      • #12
                        Somebody walk me through the valley of the shadow of death!

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                        • #13
                          Did you check the switch g1 mentioned in post #9? That's a good first check.
                          Edit: Also, you're plugged into the effects channel?
                          Last edited by The Dude; 03-09-2017, 02:14 AM.
                          "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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                          • #14
                            If the Verb works, he is in the Effects channel... if you're still stuck after April 8th, I've got a Deuce VT I could measure for you... mine's stock.

                            Justin
                            "Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
                            "Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
                            "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

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                            • #15
                              The switch has two pairs of lugs.

                              Measuring across the front lugs (closest to faceplate) I get ~1.0 VDC with the switch off and close to 0.00 VDC with the RATE switch fully clockwise.

                              Measuring across the back lugs I get ~15.8 VDC with the switch off and exactly 0.00 VDC with the RATE pot fully clockwise

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