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What's up with these Ampeg lamp assys?

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  • What's up with these Ampeg lamp assys?

    I have a 64 Ampeg J-12 Jet that I love. The lamp assy. snapped inside and lost it's crimped connection, rendering the lamp non-functioning. I have left the amp on for days as a result. I ordered a replacement from a vendor, installed it, and when I put the lamp in it, the same darned thing happened! The lamp went in and I felt the spring loaded contact move a bit, then snap! and now it is limp, exactly like the original. see how the layers are separated at the rear? Is this a thing with these? Or did I get very unlucky? Is there a fix for it? I plan to run it by Bruce at Fliptops, but darn it, how frustrating.

    The lamp is an old 47 that has been it the amp for a very long time.
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    Last edited by Randall; 03-13-2017, 09:58 PM.
    It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

  • #2
    Originally posted by Randall View Post
    The lamp went in and I felt the spring loaded contact move a bit, then snap! and now it is limp, exactly like the original.
    Proves that the part is 100% authentic, could you ask for any more proof?

    I should count myself lucky, haven't had any Ampegs do this to me. OTOH I've never been much satisfied by the dim green glow from their stock pilot. I'd rig up a nice bright green LED behind that jewel, after all it's St. Patricks Day, almost. A LED, a rectifier, a resistor, a few minutes McGyvering it all into place, then never worry about it again. Put green smiley thing here.
    This isn't the future I signed up for.

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    • #3
      I'm wondering if it's a NOS part instead of a repro? If so...

      Justin
      "Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
      "Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
      "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

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      • #4
        "I'd rig up a nice bright green LED behind that jewel, after all it's St. Patricks Day, almost. A LED, a rectifier, a resistor, a few minutes McGyvering it all into place, then never worry about it again"

        That's not a bad idea, I've never been satisfied with that pilot either. And so far I'm not getting much love from the vendor on the matter.

        I'm a little dodgy on how to go about it, tho. If I run the LED, resistor and diode from one side of the filament windings to ground, do I use a 3v LED? Or does the current limiting resistor and diode drop the supply down to under 3v, making the bright LED not so bright? or do I have it all wrong?
        Last edited by Randall; 03-13-2017, 11:22 PM.
        It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

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        • #5
          bump

          Can anyone help me with this LED circuit?
          It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

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          • #6
            What crimp connection is bad?

            It's a pretty simple housing that could be fixed mechanically very easily.

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            • #7
              This might help on the LED front:

              LED to replace 6.3v pilot lamp | Telecaster Guitar Forum

              On the lamp bezel: I've been able to crimp everything back together with a needle nose in the past and then add some solder to keep things in place. Mileage may vary.
              "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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              • #8
                WHy bring it to ground, run your LED and diode and resistor circuit ACROSS the 6vAC just like the bulb it replaces.
                Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                • #9
                  Perhaps you could explain how to repair the center pin press fit after it goes loose? I've tried and have not been able to fix it.
                  It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

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                  • #10
                    The ones I've been able to fix, I was able to get things to stay put long enough to add some solder to the backside to keep things in place. It's then held by solder instead of press fit/rivet thingy. Hopefully that makes sense? I realize, depending on how f'd up the assembly is, that it may not always be possible. Hence, the MMV part of my previous post.
                    "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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                    • #11
                      Yes, I've done the same to the original in the past, but it didn't hold. In fact it somehow disabled the spring mech to the point I could no longer get the lamp in and out.
                      It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Randall View Post
                        Yes, I've done the same to the original in the past, but it didn't hold. In fact it somehow disabled the spring mech to the point I could no longer get the lamp in and out. - - - Can anyone help me with this LED circuit?
                        Pete's sakes, put your LED rig right on the 6.3V lamp connectors. LED, rectifier, resistor all in series. I think you'll want the LED and rectifier cathodes facing the same direction. Clip it together on the workbench to test before you commit to soldering. Then a gob of epoxy or RTV, bob's your uncle, no more worries. Point the LED up into the jewel so it projects a ghastly (or festive for St. Paddy's ) green glow onto the ceiling. Also, you can see your Ampeg's on from any angle, unlike the factory build. You can select a resistor value depending on how bright you'd like it.
                        This isn't the future I signed up for.

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