Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Peavey Vypyr Tube 120 Headphone Socket Problem

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #61
    The PV p/n for the socket is 31466518.

    On the ones you found you would need to get the mechanical drawings, measure the PCBs and check the schematic for the electrical connections to see if they would be 100% compatible. Or just get one and see
    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

    Comment


    • #62
      Originally posted by nickb View Post
      The PV p/n for the socket is 31466518.

      On the ones you found you would need to get the mechanical drawings, measure the PCBs and check the schematic for the electrical connections to see if they would be 100% compatible. Or just get one and see
      That's great, Nick. The part number should (hopefully) enable me to get the correct part. I'll order a couple of the ones I've pictured anyway. At two quid a piece, it won't hurt to try them if I can't get the PV ones.

      Comment


      • #63
        Aux/Headphones Update-Vypyr Tube 120

        Originally posted by Kidderman View Post
        That's great, Nick. The part number should (hopefully) enable me to get the correct part. I'll order a couple of the ones I've pictured anyway. At two quid a piece, it won't hurt to try them if I can't get the PV ones.
        It's been a couple of months since the last post on this thread due to my having had to wait for a complete PCB to be delivered to the UK from Peavey. Here's an update regarding activity in trying to solve the problem with the aux/headphones/USB facility on the amp:
        I ordered replacement sockets for the PCB from Barnes and Mullins, the UK distributor for Peavey. The sockets which they sent (which are listed as the correct replacements for the Vypyr Tube 120) didn't fit. Their footprint enabled them to be soldered to the PCB, however they have a larger profile than the original sockets would have had. They sit higher off the board than the originals would have. When marrying up the socket ports to the holes in the front of the chassis, it caused the USB socket between the aux and headphones sockets to become displaced to the right in the chassis hole, creating a gap to the left. Also, the outside diameter of the socket holes was too big to allow them to pass through the corresponding holes in the front of the chassis. I reduced that diameter slightly by careful filing so that the socket holes went through the chassis holes. I then connected the PCB and powered up the amp. The problem remained, i.e. the speakers didn't cut out when headphones were connected and the headphones themselves became microphonic.
        I went back to Barnes & Mullins (who've been very helpful throughout) and explained that the replacement sockets they sent couldn't have been those originally fitted to the aux/ headphones PCB on this model of Vypyr. They then checked with Peavey U.S. about availability of a replacement PCB for the amp, and were advised that the PCB is available as a spare. I ordered one and waited for six weeks for it to arrive. When I received it, it was immediately apparent that it wasn't going to work. The sockets fitted to it are exactly the same as those previously sent to me as replacements. Therefore, the board won't fit to the chassis for the reasons described above. Also, the new PCB has two retaining brackets. The original PCB has only one. I tried the original retaining screw in the brackets on the new PCB. The screw thread is slightly larger than the thread in the brackets.
        My conclusion is that there's no way in which the sockets and PCB which I've received as spares are the same as those which would have been fitted to the Series 1 Vypyr tube 120 amps. I'm guessing that the original PCB's were unique to this model and that later PCB's were made to fit a wider range of Vypyr amps including solid state models.
        I believe that Barnes & Mullins are going to approach Peavey U.S. with one last throw of the dice as to whether there's any possibility of the correct PCB being out there somewhere. Worst case scenario, I'll have an amp with no headphones/aux facility. As it's such a great amp and works fine otherwise, I can live with it, but it would be good to have it functioning at a hundred per cent. I've posted some photos to illustrate the differences between the original PCB and the replacement which was sent to me. The original is on the left in each photo.Click image for larger version

Name:	006.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	1.05 MB
ID:	845957Click image for larger version

Name:	008.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	1.11 MB
ID:	845958Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 3.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	1.09 MB
ID:	845959Click image for larger version

Name:	003.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	1.12 MB
ID:	845960Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 4.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	1.03 MB
ID:	845961

        Comment


        • #64
          Sorry to hear about that but doesn't it prove that there is nothing wrong with the old board and the problem is elsewhere? SO the old board is OK.
          The problem seems to be quite simple but solving it requires some skills which you don't have. Like e.g. reading schematics, performing measurements and understanding the results.
          For example, on P4 connector there are both headphone amp outputs and AUX inputs. Since plugging in the headphones makes the amp microphonic, it means that somehow the headphone amp outputs are shorted with the AUX inputs. And diagnosing this is something like 30 minutes. Another problem is with the amp not being muted. When you plug in the headphones, the control voltage on U6 pin #13 should change from high to low. Have you tested this? This should be a basic test before ordering a new board. Now you spend some money for the new module, lost 3 months and still don't know what is the problem. If you were in Poland, I would fix the amp for you .

          There may be one important problem here: the board should be grounded (by means of the screw to the enclosure of the amp). Isn't it so that you are testing the amp without this screw and this is the only problem you have?

          Mark

          Comment


          • #65
            Originally posted by MarkusBass View Post
            Sorry to hear about that but doesn't it prove that there is nothing wrong with the old board and the problem is elsewhere? SO the old board is OK.
            The problem seems to be quite simple but solving it requires some skills which you don't have. Like e.g. reading schematics, performing measurements and understanding the results.
            For example, on P4 connector there are both headphone amp outputs and AUX inputs. Since plugging in the headphones makes the amp microphonic, it means that somehow the headphone amp outputs are shorted with the AUX inputs. And diagnosing this is something like 30 minutes. Another problem is with the amp not being muted. When you plug in the headphones, the control voltage on U6 pin #13 should change from high to low. Have you tested this? This should be a basic test before ordering a new board. Now you spend some money for the new module, lost 3 months and still don't know what is the problem. If you were in Poland, I would fix the amp for you .

            There may be one important problem here: the board should be grounded (by means of the screw to the enclosure of the amp). Isn't it so that you are testing the amp without this screw and this is the only problem you have?

            Mark
            Hi Mark, thanks for posting a response. I understand what you're saying with regard to carrying out certain tests and my inability to do so. However, the sockets which were sent to me-even though they weren't rhe correct fit-were tested when the PCB was fitted to the chassis with the original retaining screw. It didn't work. The new PCB had the same sockets, so wouldn't fit anyway., I tested it without being able to ground with the original retaining screw. It wouldn't have made any difference, I'm sure. As I say, I believe that the original PCB and the sockets fitted to it were one-offs. I live in hope that there may be a solution. Thanks again.

            Comment


            • #66
              Does the 'new' board work as far as the headphone mute is concerned?

              Comment


              • #67
                Thanks, JazzPBass. No, I hooked it up and tested it even though the retaining brackets were wrong, i.e the screw threads were too small. No success. The problem remained.

                Comment


                • #68
                  So the problem is not confined to 'that' board.

                  Comment


                  • #69
                    Hi, it doesn't seem so. If my Chinese was any good, I'd try and identify which factory produced the original board for the Vypyr T120 and obtain one from there. But reallistically,that aint gonna happen.
                    .

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      Originally posted by Kidderman View Post
                      Hi, it doesn't seem so. If my Chinese was any good, I'd try and identify which factory produced the original board for the Vypyr T120 and obtain one from there. But reallistically,that aint gonna happen.
                      .
                      Fancy a trip to Devon?
                      Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

                      Comment


                      • #71
                        You bought a new board, but it doesn't fit. I would contact customer service at Peavey immediately and explain the problem. It seems they changed brands of connector, and the panel was changed to accommodate.
                        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

                        Comment


                        • #72
                          Hi Enzo, appreciate your response. I've been in touch with Peavey throughout, firstly with regard to the replacement sockets being wrong, then about the replacement PCB being wrong. It seems as though their spares system shows spare Vypyr sockets and PCB's, but not the correct ones for the Vypyr Tube 120's.

                          Comment


                          • #73
                            Originally posted by Kidderman View Post
                            Hi, it doesn't seem so. If my Chinese was any good, I'd try and identify which factory produced the original board for the Vypyr T120 and obtain one from there. But reallistically,that aint gonna happen.
                            .
                            You really did not answer the question.

                            The old board does not work, headphone mute wise.
                            Correct?

                            The new board appears to have the same ribbon cable connector headers.
                            Correct?

                            If you plug in the new board, hanging free, insulated from the amp (so as not to short anything out), does the board function?
                            Does the headphone out work, free of hum?
                            Does it mute the speaker?

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              Originally posted by Jazz P Bass View Post
                              You really did not answer the question.

                              The old board does not work, headphone mute wise.
                              Correct?

                              The new board appears to have the same ribbon cable connector headers.
                              Correct?

                              If you plug in the new board, hanging free, insulated from the amp (so as not to short anything out), does the board function?
                              Does the headphone out work, free of hum?
                              Does it mute the speaker?
                              The old board doesn't work. The speakers aren't muted and the headphones become microphonic. The sockets on the old board have been swapped out three times, without success. The new board appears to have the same ribbon connector headers.I tested the board while it was hanging free of the chassis (even though the sockets are too big). Same problem. Doesn't mute the speaker, microphonic headphones.
                              Last edited by Kidderman; 07-24-2017, 12:30 PM.

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                I'd happily pack the chassis up and ship it to wherever if there was a chance that an amp tech could fix the problem. However, I can't see how they'd have more success than I've had in obtaining correct sockets or PCB's for this amp. Unless the problem lies elsewhere and the correct tests could provide an accurate diagnosis.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X