Enzo - Removing Peavey Pots

[lowell]

What's the best way of removing bracket pots from a Peavey PCB?

I am replacing all 18 pots in a Transtube 212. They are all very scratchy to the point of signal being intermittent...even after 2 sprays and 50 or more turns.

The first one was difficult and the traces lifted. Using a desoldering pump. I tried even clipping the brackets but only helped a bit. 17 more to go. Curious what your approach is. The real doozy is the center lug of each pot is bent over.

[TomCarlos]

Well... I certainly ain't no "Enzo" but if you will allow me to chime in ...

Wow... replacing all the pots? That is a big job. Before you pull the pots, do you have the replacements? Some of those pots are getting hard to find. Are you using the DeoxIT F5 spray cleaner?

If the traces are lifting, maybe you need to dial back on the solder tip temp. Sometimes, I have put a dap of new solder on the point to help loosen up the old solder. I then use my ESD Deolder Pump. It works well. I make sure it is positioned right over the solder point.

For the center lug, I heat that one up a bit then get a small flat head screwdriver and pry it up before trying to remove the solder.

If the trace gets compromised, I use my Exacto Knife to scrap away some of the protective layer to get down to the copper. That will help the solder melt from the new pot onto the trace.

Tom

[The Dude]

I'm not Enzo either, but that seems like it's getting close to being a repair that doesn't make sense. I count 18 pots and a couple hours labor.

FWIW: I use a Pace desoldering station. Sans forking out for a good desoldering station, a solder sucker and some wick to clean up is what I'd probably use. Sometimes, like Tom says, it helps to add a bit of solder to get things moving along. It might seem counterproductive, but it does work sometimes.

[Enzo]

I suck the three legs dry with my Pace machine. I make sure to wiggle as I suck to help prevent sticking to the side of the hole. bent over end? I have some small flush cutters I might lop off the foot completely, but usually I get under it with an Xacto blade and pry it up off the board while melting solder. Then I usually get under a front corner with a small screwdriver and apply some pressure out as I heat that corner bracket foot. Once it fres, I go to the rear corner to free that side, then the other two are a lot easier as you can move the part around./

[Randall]

I've never owned a de-soldering station. Always have used liquid flux, solder sucker and copper wick. So my question is, why are they so damned expensive? Several hundred dollars, really?

[Mick Bailey]

A comparison I make is 'more than the price of a washing machine'

I wouldn't be without a desolder station. I get very few lifted pads and can reinsert removed components if necessary as they come out quickly and cleanly with no overheating. I balance the price of consumables with the efficiency and speed of repairs.

My technique for removing bent-over components is to clip the lead flush before desoldering, or in the case of bent-over tabs to suck away excess solder and inspect the job. If the tab is thin enough to pry up, I use Enzo's technique. If it's thick I'll cut it where it bends over - either with a pair of sharp heavy-duty cutters, or sometimes with a Dremel. Not right the way through with a Dremel - just enough to be able to re-flow the joint and pry up the tab.

[Enzo]

why are they so damned expensive? Several hundred dollars, really?

I have a screwdriver that cost me $5 at Sears - nice Craftsman phillips driver. I also have a power drill I keep a phillips bit chucked into. Not fancy, but cost like $60. WHy is that so much more expensive than the manual driver it replaces?

I also use $90 wire strippers.

These are professional tools that do professional work. And I don't mean that snotty. If you ever get to spend a day at the bench with a pro solder sucker station, you won't want to be without. It is a good quality solder iron, plus it has to have a hollow tip with a vacuum pump.

[rjb]

For the occasional user, there is the $15 version of Enzo's Craftsman screwdriver...

The one I got at Radio Shack decades ago still works surprisingly well.
RS probably doesn't carry them anymore, but they're still around.
Here's one source https://www.showmecables.com/60w-des...rM4RoCZnLw_wcB

[lowell]

Thanks all. I'll try a few of these out. I may be using too much heat, but too little heat and the pump won't do its job well. I have a desoldering station I rarely use, but will get 'er fired up again.

Wow... replacing all the pots? That is a big job. Before you pull the pots, do you have the replacements? Some of those pots are getting hard to find. Are you using the DeoxIT F5 spray cleaner?

I have all of 'em. Peavey had 17 in stock and Full Compass had the 1. Peavey took about 3 months to get them all in... but hey, they got 'em in. Spray isn't helping, at all. They're beyond that.

Edit: I solicited Enzo because he's always been very familiar with Peavey repairs, and his copy/paste "clipboard" has "call Peavey and ask them" in the #1 spot.

[lowell]

Randall,

I have an Aoyue 701+. It's decent and affordable. I've had to change parts now and then, which they have had in stock when I needed them. Maybe give it a try.

https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Functio.../dp/B000KSRS9S

I got mine from here about 10 years ago.
Aoyue Digital Soldering Station 937+ with Free Shipping

Looks like they're on to the 701++ now.

[nosaj]

Randall,

I have an Aoyue 701+. It's decent and affordable. I've had to change parts now and then, which they have had in stock when I needed them. Maybe give it a try.

https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Functio.../dp/B000KSRS9S

I got mine from here about 10 years ago.
Aoyue Digital Soldering Station 937+ with Free Shipping

Looks like they're on to the 701++ now.

I use a 936 Auyoue I got my practice from collecting broken electronics and desoldering parts I wanted. I find since those use celcius only anywhere from 398 to 400 is just right i always pretreat the joint with fresh solder then use one of those blue sucker tools haven't lifted a trace in quite some time. The key for me is the heat and fresh solder(which the flux in it may be the real key). Oh and a clean tip for sure.

nosaj

[Enzo]

I have one of those squeezy bulb on a soldering iron things, and I didn't care for it myself.

[The Dude]

...... So my question is, why are they so damned expensive? Several hundred dollars, really?

Imagine an automotive shop without an impact wrench and compressor. Yes- expensive. But, more than worth it over time. I'd be lost and cussing a lot if I had to do without my Pace station. I had gone without one for years until I worked at a shop that had them. I got spoiled. When I left there, I had to buy my own. FYI: You can often find good used ones on eBay at decent prices. Just remember, the investment is sort of ongoing- tips, sponges, filters, etc. Well worth it if you're doing a lot of work.

[g1]

Sort of like if you do a lot of keyboards (40 plus screws etc.) and use a hand screwdriver rather than cordless power type. A five minute job to open the unit can turn into something much more time consuming.
Lead-free solder is even worse for removing, if you are dealing with a lot of repairs the de-solder station would pay for itself fairly soon.
And your hair will thank you.

[Enzo]

If I have a reasonably large lead free solder removal task, I usually flow some lead solder into the joints first to ease the removal.

Back on the road (1960s) I recall a couple times I had to replace a Celestion in a Marshal 4x12 cab on a set break. We had no such thing as battery drills then. I took all 150 screws out of the cab back with a worn phillips screwdriver. Then put then back in to close. Would have killed for a cordless drill with a screwdriver bit.