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SF Twin Reverb - Vibrato Channel Breakup

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  • SF Twin Reverb - Vibrato Channel Breakup

    Well, what fun and games today. The offender is SF Twin Reverb, the one with the master volume pull switch, described somewhere as a boost switch. I'll come back to the later.

    The complaint is the vibrato channel breaking up. I looked at the settings that were used to make it happen - volume all the way, up treble all the way up, mid and bass half way, MV switch pulled. Sure enough it breaks up if you whack the guitar pretty good, especially in the middle range.

    I reproduce the problem using a 300mVpp 1Khz sine wave and start probing. It's a very short oscillation burst. With this control setup there's a massive signal on the reverb driver (a gain of very roughly 50 x 50 x 1/10 =250 to this point) and it's getting driven all the way into hard cutoff and that is exactly where the burst happens. An interesting tidbit is the 2in wire than joins the 0.022uF cap to the 3.3M resistor that goes to V4. If I put my scope probe on the cap end of it, it makes no difference. If I put it on the 3.3M resistor end is kills the oscillation completely. A 2in bit of wire has an inductance of 50nH so this oscillation has to be VHF and given the rats nest layout and especially the wire to the MV switch from the reverb output trail right past the tone stack it's hardly surprising. I should add this amp is stock aside from the reverb transformer.

    So my first question, has anyone else ever seen this problem?

    So what to do about it? Well the whole business of taking a signal of the reverb output is rather bizarre. First, and I checked, the phase is such that it attenuates the signal to V4B, hardly a boost function. Second is that the phase shifts are significant and frequency dependant. If you wanted a gain switch it seems it would be a good deal easier to simply switch the 3.3M resistor value.

    As one approach, I added an attenuator 4:1 on the reverb driver input, lowered the gain and added headroom by increasing the cathode(s) resistor to 1.2K. I also arrange the MV to switch a 1.5M in parallel with the 3.3M to actually give a boost. There is still plenty of reverb and you cannot overdrive the reverb driver any longer. I should be happy, but I'm not.

    I suppose another strategy would be to leave the basic topology but add grid stoppers to V2B and V3 and also rewire the cable carrying the reverb signal to the switch with twin screened cable to cut out the feedback path but the sound when the reverb drive goes to cut off is pretty unmusical due to that inductive reverb tank load so I don't like this either.

    Thoughts?

    Bonus point area.

    There's some other weird stuff about this design that I've never noticed before. Look where the low side of the MV pot goes: to the 100 ohm resistor in the tail of the LTPI. Why would they do that? Also I see a 0.01uf and 220k on the V6A plate, presumably to balance the signal levels but again returned to same 100 ohm. It all seems a little odd.
    Attached Files
    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

  • #2
    I would guess that it has to do with the lead dress and the 'rats nest wiring' scheme?
    So if you're thinking "I don't want to band-aid this, I want to do a legit fix" you are probably not going to find a real fault and will end up going with the band-aid.
    Originally posted by Enzo
    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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    • #3
      Have you checked that 560pf on the plate of V3 just ahead of the reverb transformer?
      "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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      • #4
        Makes me wonder how this ampis used. Treble allthe way up? Ice pick to the head, lol! I've never known anyone to actually use the boost switch on these amps. Generally most people use them as a clean platform for pedals.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by The Dude View Post
          Have you checked that 560pf on the plate of V3 just ahead of the reverb transformer?
          Yes, I did, thx.
          Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by olddawg View Post
            Makes me wonder how this ampis used. Treble allthe way up? Ice pick to the head, lol! I've never known anyone to actually use the boost switch on these amps. Generally most people use them as a clean platform for pedals.
            Based on the design alone there is no question it will overdrive the reverb and that doesn't really sound very nice. It's a bit like someone kicking a bunch of metal trash cans down an alley. Not musical at all.

            Indeed, the settings are not something you would use in practice and this is a big part of what is behind my post. If other people see the same problem then it's further evidence of the design issue. I can then advise the owner with more confidence.

            Boost switch? The signal at V4B is no bigger when the switch is closed. The 12k and 0.01uf on the other section of the switch simply roll off the HF.
            Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

            Comment


            • #7
              Yes, all this is familiar to me, the preamp overdrive on these things is pretty horrid, and some control settings can send things crazy.
              I've tried the various mods mentioned to try and improve things a bit, but one of my friends actually likes the pull boost feature, so I couldn't change it too much.
              I think that V3 grid stoppers and making the V3 cathode resistor 1k5 (bypassed) in series with 820 (unbypassed) would be a good starting point if I get another one in.
              My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

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              • #8
                Originally posted by pdf64 View Post
                Yes, all this is familiar to me, the preamp overdrive on these things is pretty horrid, and some control settings can send things crazy.
                I've tried the various mods mentioned to try and improve things a bit, but one of my friends actually likes the pull boost feature, so I couldn't change it too much.
                I think that V3 grid stoppers and making the V3 cathode resistor 1k5 (bypassed) in series with 820 (unbypassed) would be a good starting point if I get another one in.
                Funnily enough, the very first thing I tried was a grid stopper on V3. It didn't make an iota of difference, very surprisingly. V2 is a better bet as that is where I think it's feeding back to.
                Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by nickb View Post
                  Boost switch? The signal at V4B is no bigger when the switch is closed. The 12k and 0.01uf on the other section of the switch simply roll off the HF.
                  That 12K/0.01uF thing may be there to counter the high frequency ramp-up that happens when you take the signal from the reverb transformer secondary.

                  My prior experience with the Master Vol. switch has always been removing it, but I have distinct memories of a volume boost before removal. You sort of implied that the signal coming off of the reverb transformer is out of phase with the signal at V4B. That may well be at low frequencies when the phase shift is very severe, but the schematic indicates that the signals should be in phase if there wasn't a phase shift. Is there any chance the reverb transformer leads are reversed?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 66 Kicks View Post
                    That 12K/0.01uF thing may be there to counter the high frequency ramp-up that happens when you take the signal from the reverb transformer secondary.

                    My prior experience with the Master Vol. switch has always been removing it, but I have distinct memories of a volume boost before removal. You sort of implied that the signal coming off of the reverb transformer is out of phase with the signal at V4B. That may well be at low frequencies when the phase shift is very severe, but the schematic indicates that the signals should be in phase if there wasn't a phase shift. Is there any chance the reverb transformer leads are reversed?

                    I checked the transformer phase. If I change it, the gain is even lower.

                    If a scratch my head any longer over this I'm afraid I might get splinters.
                    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

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                    • #11
                      take the nobs off and check tightness of pot nuts,

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                      • #12
                        If your probe kills the burst, why not add a little cap and/or resistor there to mimic the probe and kill the burst?

                        If blasting the reverb driver into cutoff sounds crap, how about back to back clipping diodes (value?) across the input so that it cannot be driven into cutoff?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by nickb View Post
                          Funnily enough, the very first thing I tried was a grid stopper on V3. It didn't make an iota of difference, very surprisingly. V2 is a better bet as that is where I think it's feeding back to.
                          V3 grid stoppers (eg >22k) should get the transition into overdrive a lot nicer though?
                          And it's possible that a more reasonable operating point for V3 (eg with the ~2k3 bias resistance) may have stabilised things on the amps I tinkered with. The very long wiring runs between the board and controls on the fx channel may contribute to instability.

                          I seem to remember that the pull boost made the tone a bit more 'harmonicy', ie an increase in the high mids, rather than a big kick up of the overall gain.
                          My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

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                          • #14
                            Did you try replacing the vibrato section tube with a known good tube?

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                            • #15
                              Which tube do you mean? Due to the low value of bias resistor, V3 has an excessive dissipation in these amps and hence are the most likely 9 pin tube to fail.
                              But the last one of these was a while ago, so I can't remember exactly
                              My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

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