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Mysteries of the Bench: case#1 - Phased and confused

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  • Mysteries of the Bench: case#1 - Phased and confused

    So, my first week on the bench turned out to be Fender Hot Rod Deluxe & Devilles as far as the eye can see. But one of the jobs has me scratching my head and I'm hoping maybe you guys can help me out with this one.

    Customer brings in the amp for general service, bias, cleaning, etc. I don't have the work order in front of me right now, but I believe he may have brought it in for specific issue. It seems every hot rod that I worked on had a plate resistor failure, and at least on of the screen resistors had already been replaced. I remember replacing the 100k plate load resistor in his amp. Anyway, he needed new output tubes and he told us to replace all the preamp tube as well. After we were done with the service and cleaning, it sounded good, looked like new, and he couldn't have been happier.
    The next day he walks in with the amp because, he said after 3 hours of playing, it started to sound terrible (and it did). Kind of like that weak power accompanied by scratchy distortion which almost sounds like digital artifacts as a note fades away.
    Right away I though, "this sounds a lot like a failed plate load resistor in the phase inverter. What are the odds that the 82k failed right after swapping out the 100k?" Obviously, I it couldn't have been the one I did the work on
    But, when we sine wave tested it, the output looked really terrible and more like static than a sine wave.
    Another tech had it on his bench and was testing some of the solder joints in the power supply filtering. When tapping on the boards, there was evidence that the waveform on the scope would momentarily correct itself. We were suspicious of the solder joints, and opted to pull the board to reflow the solder on the caps. The customer had already paid a large bill, and rather than reflow solder on the original IL caps which were there, we replaced them with new ones.

    Now, here is where the weird shit started to go down. With the tubes pulled, we checked the voltages in the B+ and bias. Everything checked out. We reinstalled the tubes to check the bias and sine wave test it again. But, when the tubes heated up, the bias voltage started climbing... fast! from -51V(or whatever) to -20,-10,+10,+30/60/120. Kill the power, the tubes are red-plating...
    Okay, that is F'd up. The voltages would all test fine until the tubes would heat up and draw current and the then bias would skyrocket in a hurry. My initial though, was that the board had become conductive and was leaking HV. But, that wasn't the case. It turns out, we isolated it to the new JJ 12AX7 we put in the phase inverter, had completely failed. We swapped it out to be sure, and a new tube fixed the problem. No sign of bias drift. We tested it several times, left it on, and played it to be sure. But, a new tube fixed the problem. What is bothering me though, is, I'm looking at the schematic and I don't understand how a failed tube in the phase inverter could cause that. Can you guys shed some light on this?
    If I have a 50% chance of guessing the right answer, I guess wrong 80% of the time.

  • #2
    On all these amps of this series, look VERY closely at the power tube socket pins solder, it is often cracked. I routinely just resolder all 16 pins as a matter of course. This causes many intermittent failures.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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    • #3
      I'm also thinking it was 2 coincidental faults, and the bias issue may still be there intermittently.
      I take it that the faulty preamp tube was responsible for the weak signal and scratchy artifacts? Did you try it in a different preamp spot to verify?
      There should not be any way for a bad PI tube to affect the bias due to the coupling caps.
      Perhaps what Enzo suggested about the sockets, or a bad coupling cap from PI.
      Originally posted by Enzo
      I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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      • #4
        Originally posted by SoulFetish View Post
        What are the odds that the 82k failed right after swapping out the 100k?
        The plate load resistors on the inverter tube are a weak spot in the HotRod/Blues whatever series of Fenders. They look to be quarter watt parts. I replace them with half watt resistors any time there's a failure and no more problems.

        I don't see any way a defective inverter tube would cause drifting or loss of bias voltage. It's much more likely an output tube failure would cause this sort of problem. If the amp has a bias adjustment pot, the ones Fender used sometimes go bad. Also they put a glob of paint on the pot to keep it from moving & sometimes that paint, or fragments from paint that has crumbled when the pot is adusted, get onto the pot track and cause the voltage to drift or suddenly change.

        Where is it you're working? If you mentioned it somehow I didn't catch it. Nice to have a paycheck job, good for you!
        This isn't the future I signed up for.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by g1 View Post
          I'm also thinking it was 2 coincidental faults, and the bias issue may still be there intermittently.
          I take it that the faulty preamp tube was responsible for the weak signal and scratchy artifacts? Did you try it in a different preamp spot to verify?
          There should not be any way for a bad PI tube to affect the bias due to the coupling caps.
          Perhaps what Enzo suggested about the sockets, or a bad coupling cap from PI.
          Right? Okay, so I'm not crazy. This one is a total X-File.
          The tube was definitely bad. We swapped it to another spot and put a different tube in the PI. I would have though maybe it was coincidental timing, but when putting in a new tube fixed the problem, that's what got me scratching my head. Watching the current on the Variac Meter confirmed the High Bias Voltage readings on my multimeter.
          If I have a 50% chance of guessing the right answer, I guess wrong 80% of the time.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
            The plate load resistors on the inverter tube are a weak spot in the HotRod/Blues whatever series of Fenders. They look to be quarter watt parts. I replace them with half watt resistors any time there's a failure and no more problems.
            That's the word on the street, I hear. Plus, the 1W 470Ω screen resistors were a bad decision. Almost every one out of two I worked on this week, had failed plate load resistors. The ones that didn't, I swapped 'em out as a preventative measure.

            Originally posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
            I don't see any way a defective inverter tube would cause drifting or loss of bias voltage. It's much more likely an output tube failure would cause this sort of problem. If the amp has a bias adjustment pot, the ones Fender used sometimes go bad. Also they put a glob of paint on the pot to keep it from moving & sometimes that paint, or fragments from paint that has crumbled when the pot is adusted, get onto the pot track and cause the voltage to drift or suddenly change.
            Interesting you mention that. The bias pot in his amp was shit and we replaced that the first time around. That was one of the first things we checked when the bias went shit house. I don't know about this one. It would be weird if it was coincidental timing..... I don't know. Perhaps we need to file this one away as a cold case. Why drift like that only after the tubes warm up? Anyway, we did all the normal stuff (I did make sure to reflowed the solder on the output tube sockets, by the way Enzo. I thought you'd want to know )
            If I have a 50% chance of guessing the right answer, I guess wrong 80% of the time.

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            • #7
              You switched out the bad tube and the amp tested OK. Did you put that tube back in its original location to see if you could replicate the same fault again? When the new tube was fitted did you tap the boards to see if the output was stable?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Mick Bailey View Post
                You switched out the bad tube and the amp tested OK. Did you put that tube back in its original location to see if you could replicate the same fault again? When the new tube was fitted did you tap the boards to see if the output was stable?
                Yeah, I'm almost positive I put the JJ tube back in, just to make sure I was keeping track of what parts I was using under test. But, I'm not 100%.
                After I replaced it with a new tube, I tapped the board and tube a good amount. I wanted to be sure the tube was mechanically solid enough to hold up. I checked the bias, and left the amp on for a few minutes to see if there was any bias drift. Checked it again and it was maybe drawing 1/2mA more current after 10 minutes, and ran a signal through it and watched it on the scope. Gave it a stress test while looking at the output waveform. Everything checked out okay.
                I know that HF oscillations can cause red plating. Could the tube have been oscillating at frequencies high enough to cause my meter to get false readings in it's DC setting?
                If I have a 50% chance of guessing the right answer, I guess wrong 80% of the time.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Usually the oscillation that causes red-plating is associate more with output tubes. But let's say you had HF oscillation in the PI. It would need to be at a high enough frequency not to be audible, and low enough so that the combined grid stoppers and tube capacitance don't filter it out. You could get a very strong signal appearing on the output tube grids. Without scoping around the PI you'll never know.

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                  • #10
                    I know the blues jr will oscillate. Put it on a scope, with the back on and the back off, makes a difference. I think it was 50khz oscillation. The cats went running out of the garage when i turned it on.

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                    • #11
                      I've had a few Hotrod Deluxe MK IIIs recently that oscillate with the back off as soon as you put a hand near them. With those it was pretty low frequency.

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                      • #12
                        Now that it's been mentioned, I recall some of this Fender style breaking into oscillation when reading PI voltages.
                        Originally posted by Enzo
                        I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                        • #13
                          That happens enough that I don't even think about it when it does, I just accept that limitation and work around it.
                          Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by mozz View Post
                            The cats went running out of the garage when i turned it on.
                            When that happens, you know you got trouble!

                            In this series of amps, when I run across ultrasonic oscillation, I apply the patented parasite smasher: 470 pF 1KV disc cap across the plates of the drive tube. You think that would throw a blanket on the amp's high treble response, but I've never heard much if any difference. Maybe up in cat, dog & bat frequencies, too high for us to care about. Try it, it's cheap fast & effective, the cat's pajamas.
                            This isn't the future I signed up for.

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                            • #15
                              The late BillM had on his webpage, the cure for the oscillation, i think it was 50pf across something.
                              Billm Audio » Billm Audio Blues Junior Mods

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